{"id":111574,"date":"2021-05-19T08:50:20","date_gmt":"2021-05-19T14:50:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=111574"},"modified":"2021-09-30T08:47:07","modified_gmt":"2021-09-30T14:47:07","slug":"spice-fat-acid-beer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer","title":{"rendered":"Spice, Fat, Acid, Beer"},"content":{"rendered":"

American Craft Beers Find Their Way into Japanese and Korean Restaurants<\/h2>\n

For so long American craft beers have been left out of Japanese and Korean restaurants\u2014because they seemed to clash with, or overshadow the food\u2019s character (too hoppy, too sour, too spicy). But by sticking to dependable pairing ideologies\u2014big flavored or high alcohol beers with salty, fatty foods and more balanced, lower ABV beers with high acid, spicy ones\u2014and expanding on others, such as matching sour with sour, chefs and beverage managers are now finding smart ways that these cuisines and beer pairings can coexist (and maybe even improve one another).<\/p>\n

Korean cooking is permeated with the unmistakable likes of kimchi (lacto-fermented vegetables) and gochujang (a fermented bean paste with red chile pepper) as culinary building blocks for tanginess and spiciness. In Japanese kitchens, rice vinegar is a backbone to many marinades, dipping sauces, but isn\u2019t as detectable an acid as one would expect. Spice doesn\u2019t play a big role in Japanese cuisine though there is chile: shichimi togarashi, a 7-spice chile flake seasoning, used more as an on-the-table condiment than prominence, not unsimilar to yuzu kosho, chiles fermented with salt, yuzu zest and juice. While impactful, they tread lightly in Japanese recipes\u2014a more nuanced approach to Korean\u2019s palpable palate.<\/p>\n

Rachel Yang, chef\/owner of Joule, a Korean steakhouse in Seattle, WA. Admittedly, Yang didn\u2019t think too much about how drinks work with food until owning a restaurant. \u201cKoreans have their own name for chicken and beer: chimac. Chi means chicken, and mac is the first few letters of beer in Korean; beer is called macju, which literally means barley drink.\u201d \u201cIt\u2019s a cultural phenomena, immensely popular amongst young people,\u201d says Yang, who had a restaurant in Portland called Revelry, which closed last year\u2014it served spicy Korean fried chicken. The chicken and beer (usually a pale lager) combo was by far the most popular item on our menu.<\/p>\n

When it comes to spice, one of the best-selling items at Joule is tteokbokki, Yang\u2019s take on a staple Korean dish of chewy cylindrical rice cakes that are tossed in gochujang as part of a stir fry. To this, she adds garlicky chorizo, and fermented mustard greens, describing it as \u201ca 4 out of 5\u201d on the heat scale, but with some acidity. \u201c Beer would be better than wine with this one,\u201d Yang says, pointing to the effervescence as a means of sort of \u201cmentally\u201d washing away the heat. \u201cPhysically, high alcohol accentuates spice, that\u2019s why wine wouldn\u2019t help.\u201d<\/p>\n

In Korea, lagers are #1\u2014a clean crisp choice for all the big and bright flavors in Korean food. Yang was first approached by Fremont Brewing, a neighbor to the restaurant, to help them pair their hard-to-find dark beers and aged-reserve stock. She had to do a lot of tasting to figure out what kind of foods would go well with them. The answer: big flavors, like juicy pork dumpling (fat), kimchi (acid), szechuan peppers (heat).<\/p>\n

At Joule, Yang has come to understand that no matter what her guests are ordering from the menu, they really just want to drink west coast IPAs, which aren\u2019t always the most food friendly. She advocates for beers where the hop character isn\u2019t overly assertive, as with hazy or session IPAs. \u201cWe\u2019re not a bar, so all our drinks have to be enjoyable to supplement our menu.\u201d Yang prefers the unfiltered mouthfeel of a hazy IPA and its smooth finish.<\/p>\n

As a chef, the food\u2019s flavor profiles come first. \u201cWe talk a lot about acid here, bright citrusy vinegary flavors,\u201d says Yang. A cool cucumber salad, or even heirloom tomatoes will raise your taste buds, and a big, hoppy beer can make that unenjoyable, a battle between two opposing flavors. \u201cGoses, saisons, sour beers are all extremely food friendly because acid works well with acid,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\"Three
Lynne Weaver and Alexandra Nowell of Three Weavers Brewing Co., Inglewood, CA.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

But often, in her cooking, dishes aren\u2019t just high acid or just spicy, but will be a combination of the two.\u201cOur kimchijeon (spicy and sour kimchi cheese pancake) is very spicy, but the lactic acid in the kimchi is sour. With two big flavors, you really need a bigger beer,\u201d says Yang, suggesting more malt or higher alcohol.<\/p>\n

Alexandra Nowell, brewmaster and director of brewing operations of Three Weavers in Inglewood, CA. As a resident diner of Los Angeles County, home to the highest Korean population in the country and highest number of Japanese residents among cities outside of Japan, Nowell has eaten her fair share of both cuisines, plus her business partner (Lynne Weaver, who\u2019s family is from Fukuoka) is Japanese. Nowell believes their IPAs have a place at the table in both these cuisines\u2014made for easy drinking, but also these kinds of cuisines in mind. \u201cOur Expatriate IPA isn\u2019t overly bitter, it lends well to fermented food and fatty meats. Hopped with El Dorado and Mosaic, you\u2019ll get a hit of bright grapefruit, bag of weed, and Christmas trees, ending with a candied lemon tropical note from the Simcoe,\u201d states Nowell. They\u2019re very balanced for west coast IPAs, they don\u2019t finish with astringency or bitterness,<\/p>\n

\u201cWe brewed a beer for the (now shuttered) Japanese restaurant MTN, an offshoot of Gjelina. We made a rice lager with a light hopping of Citra, which gave it a mango-like character. Super flavorful, but it was restrained enough in structure, that it also complimented everything else they had on the menu from sashimi to ramen to funky fermented pickled stuff.\u201d<\/p>\n

Nowell says it\u2019s beer\u2019s low pH, that really works well with the subtleties of Japanese cuisine. \u201c\u201cAnything with a phenolic yeast bite, anything floral, mild citrus, works well with Japanese food,\u201d she says.Three Weavers makes an IPA with Japanese yuzu and Buddha’s hand citrus, but Norwell thinks even that may be too citrus-forward.<\/p>\n

In Brooklyn, where citrus isn\u2019t as local, husband-and-wife team Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi of the Japanese-Jewish restaurant Shalom Japan, riff on many classics from Hiroshima, where Okochi grew up. That region is known for both its okonomiyaki, savory, cabbage-filled pancakes piled with many sweet and savory toppings, and ramen, like tsukemen, a dipping-style. There\u2019s also oysters, big ones, that are usually grilled, and served with local lemons\u2014relying on layers of umami throughout the menu. Umami is made of glutamic acid, and needs a balanced beer that will fortify flavors rather than be a force of its own. Their mainstay beer: Rockaway ESB.<\/p>\n

\"Sawako
Sawoko Okochi and Aaron Israel, owners of the Japanese-Jewish restaurant Shalom Japan, Brooklyn, NY.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

\u201cI try not to drink that much beer when I eat ramen, I get so full,\u201d says Okochi, \u201dbut ramen has such fattiness, it needs another note\u201d. Randolph Beer in Brooklyn approached the couple about making a specialty beer for these flavor bombs. And thus, Ume-Gose-Shi was born. \u201cIt\u2019s a bit sour, and that acid through the fat well.\u201d Originally meant to pair with their house-smoked wagyu pastrami sando (served on shokupan, Japanese milk bread, with Gulden\u2019s mustard and dill pickle), it wasn\u2019t a super sour gose, a little more balanced and hoppy than a full sour. \u201cWith undernotes of plum, the ume isn\u2019t really acidic, it\u2019s more basic, but feels the same on your tongue,\u201d mentions Israel, but admittedly leaves the beverage pairings to Robert Sniffen, the beverage manager at Shalom Japan.<\/p>\n

ESB, Extra Special Bitter, is an often-neglected style in the States, and funny enough, isn’t usually as bitter as an IPA\u2014most run at about 50 IBUs. Around 5% ABV, with some malt character, a little richness, and of course, slight bitterness, the beer doesn\u2019t take over the food. Sniffen likes pairing the Rockaway with their fall-off-the-bone Teriyaki Duck Wings, which have a bit of sweetness in the sauce; the ESB cuts through that nicely. \u201cA little bit spicy from sriracha, the teriyaki sauce is basically a caramel, shocked with soy sauce and mirin, blended with garlic confit, and hot sauce for heat and acidity,\u201d mentions Israel. With a lot of gently-hopped pairing options in the New York State region, Sniffen is looking forward to welcoming Grimm Ales, Threes Brewing, Captain Lawrence, and more beers from the Hudson Valley.<\/p>\n

They also serve a very beer-friendly roasted oyster appetizer, topped with miso butter that starts you off with salt, fat and umami in a single slurp. Follow that up with a few sips, and you\u2019ll see how you won\u2019t miss mignonette\u2014the acid\u2019s already there (in the beer).<\/p>\n

RECIPES<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Kimchijeon (Spicy and Sour Kimchi Cheese Pancake)<\/h3>\n

By Rachel Yang, Joule, Seattle, WA<\/em><\/p>\n

\"sweetTangy kimchi, spicy gochujang, melty cheese\u2014a trifecta of tastes cohere into a spectacular singular savory pancake.<\/p>\n

Makes two 9-inch pancakes<\/p>\n

Active time 15 min<\/p>\n

Total time 15 min<\/p>\n

Ingredients<\/strong><\/p>\n

    \n
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour<\/li>\n
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch<\/li>\n
  • 1 tablespoon garlic powder<\/li>\n
  • 1 tablespoon onion powder<\/li>\n
  • 1 tablespoon cayenne powder<\/li>\n
  • 1 teaspoon salt<\/li>\n
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder<\/li>\n
  • 1 egg<\/li>\n
  • \u00be cup water<\/li>\n
  • 2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean chili paste)<\/li>\n
  • 1 cup kimchi, chopped<\/li>\n
  • \u00bc cup mozzarella cheese<\/li>\n
  • \u00bc cup cheddar cheese<\/li>\n
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Directions<\/strong><\/p>\n

      \n
    1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne powder, salt, and baking powder.<\/li>\n
    2. Add egg, water and gochujang to the dry mixture. Mix well with a whisk.<\/li>\n
    3. Add kimchi and mix well.<\/li>\n
    4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil in a 9-inch non stick pan over medium heat.<\/li>\n
    5. Pour half of the batter into the pan and spread well, turning the pan to coat the bottom.<\/li>\n
    6. Sprinkle half of the mozzarella and half of the cheddar cheese evenly over the batter.<\/li>\n
    7. Once the bottom has crisped up and browned (2 to 4 minutes), flip and cook the other side the same way.<\/li>\n
    8. Repeat with remaining batter.<\/li>\n
    9. Serve the pancakes hot, on their own, or with a soy-based dipping sauce.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      Teriyaki Sauce<\/h3>\n

      \"TeriyakiBy Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi of Shalom Japan, Brooklyn, NY <\/em><\/p>\n

      Teriyaki is a very stable sauce\u2014a quart will last in the fridge for months.<\/p>\n

      Yields 1 pint<\/p>\n

      Ingredients<\/strong><\/p>\n

        \n
      • \u00be cup peeled garlic cloves<\/li>\n
      • Canola oil<\/li>\n
      • \u00bd cup mirin<\/li>\n
      • \u00bc cup soy sauce<\/li>\n
      • One 1-inch knob of ginger, cut into \u00bc inch slices<\/li>\n
      • 1 cup and 2 tablespoons (250 grams) sugar<\/li>\n
      • 1 tablespoon and 2 teaspoons (25 grams) sriracha<\/li>\n
      • Candy thermometer, optional<\/li>\n
      • Heat proof or wooden spatula<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        Directions<\/strong><\/p>\n

          \n
        1. To a small pot, add the garlic with enough canola oil to cover. Over low heat, bring to a very gentle simmer. Cook for 10-15 minutes, until the garlic cloves are soft enough that they can be easily smashed with a fork. Remove from heat and strain off the oil. (You won’t need it any further in this recipe, but it\u2019s wonderful to have on hand for other uses, like for fish or tofu. Just let it cool, and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a month).<\/li>\n
        2. Put the garlic cloves in a blender and buzz on high speed until you have a smooth paste. Remove from the blender and set aside.<\/li>\n
        3. To a small pot, add the mirin, soy sauce and ginger, and bring to a boil over high heat. Once it boils, turn down to low, and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Turn off heat and let the ginger steep in the liquid for 10 minutes; then remove the ginger and discard.<\/li>\n
        4. To a medium sized pot (4 quarts would be ideal, but not smaller), add the sugar. Add a tablespoon of water and mix thoroughly until the sugar has the consistency of wet sand. If you have a candy thermometer, clip it to the rim of the pot and set in the sugar. Turn the heat to medium high\u2014do not disturb the sugar. Once it starts to melt, and you see it starting to caramelize, about 3-5 minutes, give it a couple to few stirs using a heat proof spatula or wooden spoon. Let the sugar continue to caramelize, stirring infrequently, only once or twice every few minutes. If you stir it too much, you risk having it crystalize. Once the caramel  reaches 350F, about 8-12 minutes\u2014it should have a uniform, deep amber color, and just barely start to smoke, with a deep caramel aroma.<\/li>\n
        5. Turn off the heat, and immediately, and incredibly carefully, pour the mirin\/soy liquid, very slowly into the caramel. This is the most dangerous thing you will do in a kitchen, with the molten caramel having the capacity to sputter and jump out of the pot. This is why you want an amply large pot. Do not take your eyes off the bubbling caramel and don\u2019t allow any pets or small kids near the stove during this procedure. The caramel and mirin soy will bubble violently when they meet each other, but should settle down within 15 to 30 seconds. Let the hot caramel cool for twenty to thirty minutes in the pot.<\/li>\n
        6. Once the caramel has cooled slightly, whisk in the garlic confit and sriracha. Transfer to a heat proof container and store in the refrigerator, for up to two months, until you are ready to use it.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

          Roasted Oysters with Miso Butter<\/h3>\n

          By Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi of Shalom Japan, Brooklyn, NY <\/em><\/p>\n

          \"oysters\"Panko breadcrumbs are added into this simple compound butter so when it melts on top of the oyster it doesn\u2019t melt all over the place\u2014it\u2019s more like a crust. Use awase miso for middle of the road umami, and an oyster that\u2019s not too salty.<\/p>\n

          Serves 4<\/p>\n

          Ingredients<\/strong><\/p>\n

            \n
          • 1 stick (\u00bc pound) butter, at room temperature<\/li>\n
          • 2\u00bd tablespoons awase miso<\/li>\n
          • 1\/3 cup panko breadcrumbs<\/li>\n
          • Aluminum foil<\/li>\n
          • Shucking knife<\/li>\n
          • 12 large oysters (preferably ones with a nice deep cup)<\/li>\n
          • 1 lemon<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

            Directions<\/strong><\/p>\n

              \n
            1. In a medium bowl, combine the butter and miso and mix thoroughly. You can use a stand mixer with a paddle attachment for this step. Once mixed, fold in the panko breadcrumbs. Put in a non-reactive container and set aside.<\/li>\n
            2. Preheat the oven to 475F.<\/li>\n
            3. Set some crumpled aluminum foil on a baking tray. Shuck the oysters, and set them on the foil, so they don\u2019t tip over. Spread about a teaspoon of butter in a nice even layer on top of the oysters. Bake in the oven for 6-8 minutes, until the miso butter is golden brown and the breadcrumbs are toasted. Alternatively, you can broil the oysters for 3-4 minutes, just take care not to burn the breadcrumbs.<\/li>\n
            4. Remove the oysters from the oven, and grate some lemon zest on top of each one. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze a little juice onto each one as well. Serve immediately.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

              American craft beers find their way into Japanese and Korean restaurants.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7552,"featured_media":111584,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"82375,1582,24850,98273,1488,77304","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[676,4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-111574","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editors-picks","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nSpice, Fat, Acid, Beer - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"American craft beers find their way into Japanese and Korean restaurants.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Spice, Fat, Acid, Beer\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"American craft beers find their way into Japanese and Korean restaurants.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"CraftBeer.com\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/CraftBeers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2021-05-19T14:50:20+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-09-30T14:47:07+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20210518142052\/Rachel-Yang.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"628\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Michael Harlan Turkell\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@craftbeerdotcom\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@craftbeerdotcom\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Michael Harlan Turkell\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/#\/schema\/person\/37d70da5d53514f7b4633425dfd7ae82\"},\"headline\":\"Spice, Fat, Acid, Beer\",\"datePublished\":\"2021-05-19T14:50:20+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-09-30T14:47:07+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer\"},\"wordCount\":2451,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20210518142052\/Rachel-Yang.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Editor's Picks\",\"Full Pour\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/spice-fat-acid-beer\",\"name\":\"Spice, Fat, Acid, Beer - 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