{"id":112134,"date":"2022-05-16T12:57:07","date_gmt":"2022-05-16T18:57:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=112134"},"modified":"2022-08-02T10:19:18","modified_gmt":"2022-08-02T16:19:18","slug":"salinity-suds-pairing-beer-with-seafood","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/salinity-suds-pairing-beer-with-seafood","title":{"rendered":"Salinity & Suds: Pairing Beer with Seafood"},"content":{"rendered":"
You know the saying: \u201cGive a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.\u201d Well, beer\u2019s always been there for fish, but only recently have chefs around the country sufficiently established the pairings between seafood and suds to make them part of the local vernacular.<\/p>\n
An Array of Flavors<\/h1>\n
\u00a9 The Row 34 Cookbook: Stories and Recipes from a Neighborhood Oyster Bar by Jeremy Sewall and Erin Byers Murray, Rizzoli New York, 2021. Images \u00a9 Michael Harlan Turkell<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n
Just as the speech pattern that turns words like \u201cbeer\u201d into \u201cbeah\u201d <\/em>is a dominant trait in New Englanders, so too is a true affinity for seafood. Jeremy Sewall, chef\/owner of the nearly decade-old Row 34, a series of oyster bars in and around Boston, has a long history with fish, and beer, in Beantown. Located in South Boston\u2019s Fort Point neighborhood, the restaurant is home to the city\u2019s best lobster rolls and an area called the Cooler Room, a private dining room adjacent to the walk-in beer refrigerator boasting dozens of domestic kegs and hundreds of cans and bottles.<\/p>\n
Sewall, an avid fisherman and IPA drinker, thinks of beer as revolving around a time and a place\u2014a floral DIPA is a go-to for a happy hour with friends, but between casts on a boat, he\u2019s more likely to reach for a crisp Pilsner or a session pale ale for the same reason they are often found on restaurant menus: their fresh and clean quality allows you to easily eat a dozen plump, briny North Atlantic oysters and be ready for more.<\/p>\n
Sewall takes this same perspective in the kitchen. \u201cSeafood, in general, is a lighter style of cooking\u2014from sushi to fish tacos, to grilled or roasted fish. Obviously, there are heavier propositions like chowders, but when [I\u2019m working with] seafood, I think of how to introduce acid and not overwhelm your palate.\u201d He loves a mignonette with oysters and doesn\u2019t shy away from serving a lemon or lime wedge on the side of most fish dishes. Beer should serve a similar purpose of accompanying without stealing the show, he believes, adding that while he\u2019s not really a sour guy, that style\u2019s tangy vibrancy goes incredibly well with seafood (just like a squeeze of lemon), much more so than something dark or with a high ABV.<\/p>\n
\u00a9 The Row 34 Cookbook: Stories and Recipes from a Neighborhood Oyster Bar by Jeremy Sewall and Erin Byers Murray, Rizzoli New York, 2021. Images \u00a9 Michael Harlan Turkell<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n
Suzanne Hays-Bailey, Row 34\u2019s global beer director and GM at the Boston location, spends a lot of time thinking through which beers will go best with which oysters; she\u2019s a pro at it. Sewall\u2019s most recent cookbook, \u201cThe Row 34 Cookbook: Stories and Recipes from a Neighborhood Oyster Bar,\u201d includes a hardworking beer and oyster pairing guide from Hays-Bailey. She suggests juicy New England IPAs with most eastern (Virginica) oysters, and sours with \u201csuper-briny Wellfleets\u2014the beer\u2019s tart citrus will balance out the oyster\u2019s salinity,\u201d according to Hays-Bailey. She also likes having melon-forward West Coast Hama Hama and Kumamoto oysters with wild ales, such as those from Berkeley, Calif.\u2019s The Rare Barrel and Portland, Maine\u2019s Allagash Brewing. And if you\u2019re going totally wild and trying to match the \u201ccopper-like intensity of a Belon,\u201d an effervescent and bready saison can stand up to strong flavors. Hays-Bailey suggests Garden Beer from Plan Bee Farm Brewery in Poughkeepsie, N.Y., made with coriander and Paradigm hops and aged in oak; or Extra Dry, a super dry, biscuity, sake-inspired beer from Stillwater, a nomadic beer project currently in Connecticut.<\/p>\n
Sewall highlights other shellfish too, like local littlenecks steamed with Saison du Row, the restaurant\u2019s collaboration with Boston\u2019s Trillium Brewing. The beer offers a bright, hazy carbonation, lightly spiced notes of clove and lemon on the nose, and a delicate hop profile from woodsy Czech Saaz. The beer is soft, round, and freshening, attributes that carry through the cooking process to elevate the inherently sweet meat of clams and bring out their earthiness. \u201cThey do grow in mud after all,\u201d says Sewall. Bailey adds that Amory\u2019s Tomb Brewing Co. out of Maynard, Mass. offers a nice saison swap-in for the aforementioned steamed clams.<\/p>\n
Though Hays-Bailey thinks there\u2019s a place for the robust roastiness of bock bier with seafood, often pouring Harmony Park\u2014a collaboration between Schilling Beer Co. in Littleton, N.H., and Oxbow Brewing in Newcastle, Maine\u2014she thinks it\u2019s often confined to fried oysters and clams, calling on the beechwood smoked malt and mesquite blossom honey to balance out the salt and fat of a good fry.<\/p>\n
\u00a9 The Row 34 Cookbook: Stories and Recipes from a Neighborhood Oyster Bar by Jeremy Sewall and Erin Byers Murray, Rizzoli New York, 2021. Images \u00a9 Michael Harlan Turkell<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n
When it comes to beer battering, Sewall\u2019s go-to is Jack\u2019s Abby Post Shift Pilsner from Framingham, Mass.\u2014a lower ABV beer with a light body and crisp, refreshing flavor, so the color won\u2019t get too dark when golden-fried. Sewall serves his fish with malt vinegar aioli to amp up the grain, and gravitates toward Lunch IPA from Freeport, Maine\u2019s Maine Beer Company, or Substance IPA from Portland, Maine\u2019s Bissell Brothers, to match the diverse and powerful flavors and textures of the dish (e.g., crispy fry, zingy vinegar, creamy fat), but also scrub the palate of any residual oil. They\u2019re also great with baked mollusks, like angels on horseback, or bacon-wrapped oysters. Alongside a small bowl of grain mustard aioli to contrast the salty, smoky pork, dipping sauce and beer have a similar effect. In contrast to Sewall\u2019s angels on horseback IPA choice, Hays-Bailey loves the Sap Haus smoked lager from Oxbow as well, which plays up sweet and smoky notes through the addition of maple syrup in the brewing process. \u201cIt\u2019s really food friendly and adds extra depth, plus it\u2019s a nice way to introduce smoked beers like Schlenkerla onto the menu,\u201d says Hays-Bailey.<\/p>\n
Untraditional Pairings<\/h1>\n
In New York City, local sustainable fish may not seem as ubiquitous as it is in New England, but at Rosella, an American sushi bar in the East Village that opened in 2020, Chef Jeff Miller and managing partner TJ Provenzano consider the understated nature of fish when selecting a beer.<\/p>\n
Courtesy of Rosella<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n
\u201cWe do love serving fatty cuts of sashimi with sours like those from Peekskill Brewery (in Peekskill, N.Y.). Those beers add fruit and acidity, and rely less on the nose,\u201d says Provenzano, who prefers not to go too heady or aromatic when it comes to pairing sushi and beer.<\/p>\n
\u201cI prefer pale ales, like Sierra Nevada Pale and SweetWater 420,\u201d says Miller. \u201cThey\u2019re versatile,\u201d he added, explaining that the raw flavor of fish, like fluke, is so subtle in sushi that \u201ctexture is probably more distinguishing feature,\u201d except for the iron-like qualities of bluefin tuna. \u00a0\u201cWe\u2019re trying not to overpower the fish,\u201d says Provenzano, who tends to avoid super hoppy and bitter beers, pointing toward Brooklyn\u2019s Coney Island Brewery\u2019s Mermaid Pilsner. \u201cWhitefish, porgy, and tautog all have more minerality and are sweeter meat from their diet of shellfish,\u201d says Miller, who notes they\u2019re fattiest during the spring and summer and are best served raw then. \u201cFlavor and texture combine with [elevated] fat content and end up lingering in your mouth longer,\u201d Miller notes. \u201cReally fatty tuna can be hit with soy sauce (because it can stand up to strong flavors). Things like mackerel are oily, and are best cured with salt and vinegar, because in the sea of subtly flavored fish, mackerel really smacks you in the face otherwise.\u201d<\/p>\n
Rosella\u2019s omakase menu starts light and bright: acidic and sweet at the beginning, then moving into smoky and spicy flavors, separated by comforting broths. Provenzano believes these crescendos allow room to be untraditional in his pairings. Rather than going from sparkling to white to rose to red, he can go with a gose for raw preparations, then add some carbonation, then something hoppier or even Belgian, which he likes to pair with their signature laksa, a brothy Malaysian-style curry made with chicken broth, shrimp paste, coconut, and lime that Miller learned during his time as an exchange student in Australia.<\/p>\n
Courtesy of Rosella<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n
Then there\u2019s the quintessential list of sushi rolls. Arctic char and avocado riff on the omnipresent salmon roll. It utilizes their spicy homemade fermented Fresno chili paste as a piquant seasoning, and a single shiso leaf as an herbaceous cooling aid. A \u201cBagels-on-Hudson\u201d roll is reminiscent of a Philadelphia roll, except with smoked steelhead trout, dill cream cheese, tamago (a sweet Japanese omelet), and cucumber. Provenzano pairs the latter with something super crisp to cut through the fatty creaminess, offering an Easy Blonde Ale from Alphabet City Brewing Company in New York City.<\/p>\n
Provenzano touts Kings County Brewers Collective (Brooklyn, N.Y.) and its Polkageist Helles Lager, which he believes is multifaceted with sushi\u2014it\u2019s a bit higher alcohol and can go across courses. Also in Brooklyn is Other Half and its Ivy City Lager, with a maltier flavor profile than most other selections, but Provenzano loves to pair it with their tempura soft shell crab roll. Provenzano also likes Mother\u2019s Milk from Keegan Ales in Kingston, N.Y. \u201cIt\u2019s a little more vegetal and savory\u2014not at all coffee and chocolate\u2014so it\u2019s more like having a nigori sake.\u201d\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n
All the Salt in the Sea\u00a0<\/strong><\/h1>\n
Mike Lata\u2019s FIG restaurant in Charleston, S.C. has been serving southeastern Atlantic fish since 2003. Bistro classics like slow baked black bass and Lowcountry bourride (shrimp stew) paved the way for Lata to open The Ordinary, a Southern seafood brasserie that celebrates the \u201cmerroir\u201d of the coast, in 2012. Local oysters like Sea Clouds, Caper Blades, and Steamboat Creeks are constants on the menu\u2014their earthiness comes from South Carolina\u2019s characteristic pluff mud. \u201cThe salinity here sets us apart\u2014it\u2019s near 2,900 parts,\u201d more than any other ocean, says Lata. The Ordinary shucks about 7,000 oysters a week, and they\u2019re often served alongside Westbrook Brewing\u2019s White Thai, a Belgian-style wheat beer with ginger and lemongrass brewed in Mt. Pleasant, S.C. The beer is a great accompaniment to FIG\u2019s fancy seafood tower in full, which also features similar Southeast Asian flavors in their Pickled Lil\u2019 Neck Clams: lemongrass, coconut, and lime.<\/p>\n
Lata\u2019s seafood and beer approach is succinct and sustainable. \u201cI don\u2019t see why I should spend one nickel out of our community,\u201d he preaches. Miss Paula and the Carolina Breeze come from the Wando Dock on Shem Creek, and their P&E (peel & eat) Tarvin shrimp are a stalwart. Instead of the classic \u201ccocktail\u201d preparation (poached, shocked, chilled), Lata gets these in fresh, pulls off the heads (which he uses for sauce), poaches them with the shells on, and then tosses them with a proprietary blend of spices. They\u2019re chilled and meant to be eaten with your fingers. \u201cThey taste like the ocean,\u201d says Lata, who says this dish screams for a nice cold beer.<\/p>\n
Courtesy of The Ordinary<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n
\u201cWith our seafood palate, and the way we cook, we try to focus on freshness,\u201d proclaims Lata. \u201cNot a lot of cream and butter, but we do use it\u2014it\u2019s impossible not to, as fish goes great with it.\u201d \u00a0For wine, Lata usually goes for high acid, so Edmund\u2019s Oast Sour Cranberry Lime from Charleston, S.C. is a superb companion.<\/p>\n
Another local gem is crab. \u201cThere are only two places we can get crab in the country\u2014North Carolina or Alabama\u2014so we go local first, regional second, and no farther than domestic; we don\u2019t import any seafood,\u201d says Lata, echoing the mission statement that he built his reputation on. The crab\u2019s distinct and delicious, musty, super sweet, and firm meat, which Lata highlights in an okra gumbo and a lump crab rice with ginger sofrito, sunchokes, and a farm egg, goes great with the pronounced flavors of Coast Brewing Co.\u2019s Hop Art IPA. Lata\u2019s best advice, though, is to \u201cstart with a dozen shucked oysters and a Pils, like one from Munkle Brewing Co., and go from there \u2026 so long as food and drink aren\u2019t really competing with each other.\u201d<\/p>\n
The Ordinary\u2019s draught lines aren\u2019t specifically South Carolinian\u2014sometimes a nostalgic beer like Genesee Cream Ale or Point Beer (Lata\u2019s business partner is from Wisconsin) are on the menu\u2014but local beers complement Lata\u2019s concept and highlight the prolific microbrewery scene in town. Sometimes you\u2019ll even find Freehouse Brewery\u2019s oyster stout, More the Merroir, on the menu, providing hints of brine and enough richness to take on all the salt in the sea.<\/p>\n
RECIPES<\/h1>\n
Angels on Horseback<\/h2>\n
By Jeremy Sewall, Row 34, Boston, MA<\/strong><\/p>\n
Makes 18 oysters<\/em><\/p>\n
4-6 servings<\/em><\/p>\n
\n
9 slices bacon<\/li>\n
18 medium to large oysters, shucked<\/li>\n
\u00bc cup grain mustard ai\u0308oli, or your favorite mustard mixed with mayonnaise<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Preheat the oven to 350\u00b0F.<\/p>\n
Place the bacon slices flat on a baking sheet with about 1\/2 inch between them. Bake until slightly crispy but still pliable enough to wrap around the oysters, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove the bacon from the oven and turn up the oven to 425\u00b0F.<\/p>\n
Let the bacon cool slightly, then cut the slices in half crosswise. Wrap each shucked oyster with a bacon slice and secure by pushing a toothpick through the oyster. Place on a clean baking sheet.<\/p>\n
Bake the wrapped oysters until bacon is crisp and oysters are warmed through, about 6 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges and ai\u0308oli on the side.<\/p>\n
Saison-Steamed Littlenecks with Parsley Butter and Grilled Sourdough<\/h2>\n
By Jeremy Sewall, Row 34, Boston, MA<\/strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n
Serves 4 as an appetizer<\/em><\/p>\n
\n
3 tablespoons canola oil<\/li>\n
1 tablespoon minced shallot<\/li>\n
1 teaspoon minced garlic<\/li>\n
4 whole scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated<\/li>\n
40 littleneck clams, cleaned<\/li>\n
1 cup Trillium Brewery\u2019s Saison Du Row, or your favorite saison<\/li>\n
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice<\/li>\n
3 tablespoons parsley butter, or plain butter<\/li>\n
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper<\/li>\n
4 slices grilled or toasted sourdough bread<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
In a large pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat the canola oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, and white parts of the scallions and saut\u00e9 until they begin to color lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the clams and the beer, cover, and steam until the clams start to open, about 8 minutes.<\/p>\n
As the clams open, use a slotted spoon to transfer them from the pot to a serving bowl. Repeat until all the clams are open and in the serving bowl, leaving most of the cooking liquid in the pot. Add the lemon juice and parsley butter to the liquid and whisk until the butter has melted. Taste the sauce\u2014it should be salty. Season with salt and pepper as needed, then pour the sauce over the clams. Garnish with the scallion greens and serve sourdough on the side.<\/p>\n
Beer-Battered Fish and Chips with Malt Vinegar A\u00efoli<\/h2>\n
By Jeremy Sewall, Row 34, Boston, MA<\/strong><\/p>\n
Serves 4 as an entr\u00e9e<\/em><\/p>\n
\n
4 cups canola oil<\/li>\n
2 cups Beer Batter (recipe below)<\/li>\n
1 1\/2 pounds pollock or other white fish, cut into 4 pieces<\/li>\n
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper<\/li>\n
1 lemon, cut into wedges<\/li>\n
1 batch 242 Fries, or your favorite French fries<\/li>\n
1 cup malt vinegar a\u00efoli, or malt vinegar mixed in mayonnaise<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Line a plate with paper towels. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil to 350\u00b0F.<\/p>\n
Use a paper towel to thoroughly pat dry each piece of fish, then place the fish pieces in the batter, coating all sides well. Using tongs, carefully place a piece of fish in the frying oil by holding one corner of the piece until it\u2019s three-quarters submerged. Count to 10, then let the entire piece drop down into the oil. (This will prevent the fish from sticking to the bottom of the pan.) Repeat this process with each piece of fish. Fry for 2 minutes, then flip the fish over and fry for another 2 minutes. The fish should be golden brown on both sides; do this in batches if necessary.<\/p>\n
Remove the fish from the frying oil and transfer to the prepared plate to drain. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with lemon wedges, fries, and a\u00efoli for dipping.<\/p>\n
For the beer batter:<\/strong><\/p>\n
Makes about 2 cups<\/em><\/p>\n
\n
3\/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour<\/li>\n
1\/4 cup rice flour<\/li>\n
1 tablespoon kosher salt<\/li>\n
1 teaspoon baking soda<\/li>\n
1 teaspoon baking powder<\/li>\n
6 ounces beer<\/li>\n
3 ounces soda or sparkling water<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
In a large bowl, mix all of the dry ingredients. Whisk in the beer and soda water until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
You know the saying: \u201cGive a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.\u201d Well, beer\u2019s always been there for fish, but only recently have chefs around the country sufficiently established the pairings between seafood and suds to make them part […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7552,"featured_media":112143,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[676,4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-112134","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editors-picks","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n
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