{"id":112552,"date":"2022-11-17T13:16:27","date_gmt":"2022-11-17T20:16:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=112552"},"modified":"2023-04-14T09:59:05","modified_gmt":"2023-04-14T15:59:05","slug":"a-walk-through-history-and-race-in-beer-city-usa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/a-walk-through-history-and-race-in-beer-city-usa","title":{"rendered":"A Walk through History and Race in Beer City USA"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Brewers Association and CraftBeer.com are proud to support content that fosters a more diverse and inclusive craft beer community. This post was selected by the North American Guild of Beer Writers as part of its Diversity in Beer Writing Grant series. It receives additional support through a grant from the Brewers Association\u2019s Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Committee and Allagash Brewing Company.<\/em><\/p>\n

To get to know a city\u2019s beer scene, it\u2019s important to know more than what\u2019s in your glass. You also need to know the history. Walking to breweries lets you appreciate aspects of a city you may not notice buzzing by in a car, so I traveled to Grand Rapids, Mich. to explore what USA Today has called \u201cBeer City USA<\/a>.\u201d You can visit 25 breweries and trek 100 miles\u2014all without getting in a car. But the beer isn\u2019t the only thing that captures attention.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Grand<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

On foot, Grand Rapids\u2019 race-based geographic divisions are noticeable. I saw how land use decisions made decades ago affect where I can get a beer and who sits on the barstool next to me. As the craft industry\u2019s demographics change, what can Beer City USA teach us about how history impacts beer today?<\/p>\n

A mid-sized city of 200,000 people, Grand Rapids is the second most populous city in Michigan after Detroit. Grand Rapids is 65.5% non-Hispanic white, 18.1% Black, and 16.3% Hispanic\u2014more diverse than Michigan as a state.<\/p>\n

In 2015 Forbes ranked it the second-worst U.S. city for<\/a> African Americans <\/a>to live<\/a> based on metrics such as entrepreneurship and homeownership. In May, the police shooting of a Black man<\/a> sparked debates on race relations in the city<\/a>. Yet the stories I heard from residents reveal more than what statistics offer.<\/p>\n

\u2018Underserved and Ignored\u2019<\/h2>\n

Tucked near the interchange of I-196 and US-131, New Holland\u2019s Knickerbocker is<\/a> the Grand Rapids outpost of Michigan\u2019s largest independent brewery.<\/a> I fantasized about spending time in the airy multi-floor taproom here on days too cold to play outside.<\/p>\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

It is hard to imagine that in 1933 this trendy West Side neighborhood was given a \u201chazardous\u201d lending rating<\/a> by the Home Owners\u2019 Loan Corporation (HOLC). They used residents\u2019 race, ethnicity, and religion\u2014not actual creditworthiness\u2014to discourage investment. Appraisers believed Black people\u2014or in the case of the West Side, Polish immigrants\u2014reduced real estate values. A map by Michigan State University<\/a> shows redlining thwarted<\/a> people from buying or financing improvements in multiracial neighborhoods.<\/p>\n

Although redlining ended in the 1960s, its repercussions<\/a> linger. Zillow<\/a> and Redfin report<\/a> that real estate values in redlined areas across the country can be 10 times lower than in non-redlined areas.<\/p>\n

Doug Hoverson, a historian working on a book about Michigan breweries, said that in the 1980s and 1990s, not unlike today, breweries formed in \u201cthe cheapest industrial building they could find with a drain.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cross-referencing the 17 breweries within city limits with a 1940s map<\/a>, I find two other breweries in the same redlined neighborhood as The Knickerbocker. Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales is across the street. Arvon Brewing and Speciation Artisan Ales are in redlined neighborhoods east of the river. That\u2019s a disproportionate number of breweries on the 6% of the city\u2019s land deemed \u201chazardous.\u201d<\/p>\n

When Speciation Ale\u2019s Mitch Ermatinger moved to the area as a resident in 2008, he was unfamiliar with the history, but fell in love with its progressive culture. Still, he recognized that \u201cmany parts of Grand Rapids are still underserved and ignored.\u201d When the brewery relocated in 2019, the choice of community was \u201c100% intentional.\u201d In its former industrial location, Speciation had mainly attracted white men. For the brewery\u2019s new taproom, he wanted something different.<\/p>\n

How Redlining Impacted Beer Drinking<\/h2>\n

Even though descendants of redlined residents live near and drink at Grand Rapids taprooms, they still aren\u2019t the owners of the breweries. Black Calder Brewing<\/a>, founded by Grand Rapids native Terry Rostic and Michigan native Jamaal Ewing, is one of just two Black-owned breweries in the state.<\/p>\n

\u201cI went to different breweries in the area and I never saw anyone like me. I was always the outsider,\u201d Rostic said. With Black Calder, he and Ewing are challenging that narrative.<\/p>\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Rostic said there\u2019s a precedent for how representation can change who drinks craft beer. \u201cI saw this play out in the liquor industry. Rappers drinking vodka and grape juice and talking about Hpnotiq [made from fruit juice, vodka, and cognac]. The culture was like, \u2018Oh, somebody drinking that looks like us?\u2019 Before you know it, these things take off.\u201d<\/p>\n

In a city saturated with breweries, Black Calder faces unique challenges. Though established in 2020, it is still looking for a brick-and-mortar taproom.<\/p>\n

\u201cHow property was divided and shifted within Grand Rapids impacts how we operate and try to find a location today,\u201d Rostic said. \u201cA lot of property [in Grand Rapids], at least commercial property, is not owned by African Americans.\u201d For now, Black Calder releases beer through collaborations with Speciation Artisan Ales and other breweries.<\/p>\n

A history of redlining impacts fundraising, too: A quarter of new businesses rely on family money to start<\/a>, and women and minorities are disproportionately impacted by systemic issues that hindered generational wealth. \u201cI have buddies who started breweries and were able to draw hundreds of thousands of dollars from family,\u201d Rostic said.<\/p>\n

\u201cHome values in the neighborhoods where my grandparents weren\u2019t allowed to live were maybe $10,000 in the 1970s and now [they\u2019re] worth $600,000,\u201d Rostic said. \u201cWhere my grandparents were able to buy a house, overpay for that house, get very high interest loans, finally pay it off\u2014it\u2019s still in a place where their home values are not a quarter of others in the city.\u201d<\/p>\n

In Grand Rapids, highway construction for I-196 and US-131<\/a> uprooted<\/a> 4,000 Black families. Those displaced moved in with relatives or rented, which reduced intergenerational wealth. That scenario impacts traditional bank financing, too. Nationwide, inequality in homeownership has contributed to Black Americans holding only 10% of the assets<\/a> of white Americans.<\/p>\n

Without home equity, entrepreneurs can\u2019t come up with collateral. \u201cSince we didn\u2019t have these opportunities, redlining absolutely makes an impact today on business and entrepreneurship in Grand Rapids,\u201d Rostic said.<\/p>\n

While all breweries need financing, it\u2019s harder for entrepreneurs of color.<\/p>\n

The Federal Reserve reports Black and Hispanic-owned businesses face disparity<\/a> in funding. \u201cThese things are amplified 100 times in the craft beer industry because of all the regulations, no matter what you look like,\u201d Rostic said. \u201cWhen you add in generational and historical impacts, there\u2019s no reason not to understand why in Grand Rapids, Mich. you\u2019ve never had a Black-owned brewery until 2020. These are all by design.\u201d<\/p>\n

In a brewery-dense city, the two-mile walk across southeast Grand Rapids was my longest stretch between taprooms. If I had been in a car, the trek from Brass Ring Brewing<\/a> to ELK Brewing<\/a> would have gone by in a blink. On foot, it\u2019s easy to see these neighborhoods have the highest density<\/a> of Black and Hispanic people.<\/p>\n

That\u2019s why Rostic wants Grand Rapids\u2019 49507 ZIP code to be the future home of Black Calder, \u201cto show minority entrepreneurship\u2014someone from this area\u2014can be a catalyst, the building that invites other businesses to come.\u201d<\/p>\n

Funding Diverse Beer<\/h2>\n

From the city center, I head north on the bike trail for half a mile to City Built Brewing, on the east bank of the Grand River. City Built is the only Hispanic-owned brewery<\/a> in Grand Rapids. Owner Edwin Collazo\u2019s parents are from Puerto Rico. The brewery reflects his culture in the menu and beer names, like Hola, Mi Nombre Es, a fruited lactose sour.<\/p>\n

Before starting City Built, Collazo was a financial planner with a 15-year homebrew hobby. He started getting serious after joining an online national beer exchange group. \u201cI guess they needed someone who could get Michigan beers,\u201d he jokes.<\/p>\n

While he wasn\u2019t seeing local beer enthusiasts who looked like him, he found others online \u201cwho were leaders, decision makers at different breweries who had developed clout or respect for their skill set.\u201d Collazo saw what could be possible in Michigan. \u201cIf you go to places where lots of minorities live, they like good beer. It\u2019s working because of their decision makers\u2014they\u2019re marketing to other brown people.\u201d<\/p>\n

When it came time to raise money, networking skills from his prior job were a bonus. Collazo pitched City Built as a culturally diverse business that would add something unique to the city. \u201cWe did that, because 10 years ago, I don\u2019t think Grand Rapids was ready, where now it\u2019s almost cool and in vogue to seek out a cultural experience,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

\n
\"city<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Still, convincing investors was a challenge. \u201cWhen we talk about a guy who looks like me, trying to open a business in this town, it\u2019s really hard to get past the old guard,\u201d Collazo said. As a financial adviser, he\u2019d seen the advantages that come to \u201cblond, blue-eyed guys.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI had a white counterpart and he was seen as the credibility. I was referred to as \u2018that brown guy who spoke well,\u2019 which is funny for a guy from Ohio,\u201d Collazo said.\u201d He jokes, but Collazo and his parents were born in the U.S. and he has two degrees from American universities.<\/p>\n

As with Black Calder, Collazo sees City Built as a conduit to serve his community and \u201cgive Hispanic people an upscale place where they can find familiar food and familiar flavor.\u201d<\/p>\n

On my brewery walk, taproom staff often recommended competitors\u2019 beers to me. Collazo says other breweries tell tourists, \u201c\u2018If you go to one more place [in town], you have to go to City Built.\u2019 I think that happens because it\u2019s so different. You can\u2019t find this anywhere else.\u201d<\/p>\n

Education Can Change Who Brews<\/h2>\n

Hidden in the Applied Technology Center at Grand Rapids Community College (GRCC), Fountain Hill Brewery<\/a> is the public-serving side of the school\u2019s craft beer program.<\/p>\n

Molly Daniels, an adjunct professor in the craft brewing program, said that knowing beer production science is the gateway to the changing beer industry: \u201cIf you can have a conversation about beer and brewing, that opens the door to so many things.\u201d<\/p>\n

Daniels is a graduate of the program herself. Now she\u2019s a brewer at Railtown Brewing, in the greater metro area.<\/p>\n

A full-time student can achieve a certificate in a year, though most students take two years to work part-time in the industry. The program, which has been around since 2016, expects 18 students next fall.<\/p>\n

\n
\"grand<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Allison Hoekstra, a professor who teaches beer sensory classes, said that a majority of graduates end up working in beer across a variety of jobs.<\/p>\n

While GRCC\u2019s program has yet to attract many people of color, it has provided a path for female brewers. Daniels was one of the first two women to receive a certificate in brewing. Now, 20% of her students are women, compared to 7.5% of working brewers nationwide<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Hoekstra, who also is on the education committee at Grand Rapids\u2019 Beer City Brewers Guild, said that costs can be a barrier to learning. That\u2019s one reason Rostic wants to develop a GRCC Black Brewer\u2019s scholarship, in the footsteps of similar programs<\/a> elsewhere in the country.<\/p>\n

Stepping Up to the Challenge<\/h2>\n

\u201cPeople are starting to see that inclusion is real,\u201d Rostic said. \u201cSome people do it because it makes business sense. Some people do it because they want more people to drink good beer.\u201d<\/p>\n

How can the industry use its resources to support nontraditional brewers?<\/p>\n

Rostic references the difference between equity and equality.<\/a> \u201cI don\u2019t want a handout. I want an opportunity. I want to compete.\u201d He recognizes that redlining harmed intergenerational wealth in Grand Rapids<\/a>. That\u2019s why for him, equity looks like financing: \u201cLow interest loans, banks not asking for so much collateral.\u201d<\/p>\n

There\u2019s a precedent for the beer community providing access to capital. A program run by Sam Adams<\/a> and the Accion Opportunity Fund provides loans and business mentoring for women and BIPOC.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you want to diversify, you want to be inclusive, you recognize things haven\u2019t been right, you\u2019re going to have to do things that you\u2019ve never done before,\u201d Rostic said.<\/p>\n

As I walk through Grand Rapids, I imagine what it would be like if seven of Grand Rapids 40 breweries were Black-owned and six were Hispanic-owned, reflecting demographics.<\/p>\n

Rostic says that won\u2019t happen without dedication. \u201cWe really need a heart-to-heart and some soul searching as a community of business leaders, banks, and institutions to say, \u2018If we want to make this happen, then we\u2019re going to help you by any means necessary.\u2019 That\u2019s what\u2019s needed in Michigan and everywhere across the country.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As the craft industry\u2019s demographics change, what can Beer City USA teach us about how history impacts beer today?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6921,"featured_media":112560,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"82375,1582,101572,98273,24850,83635","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[676,4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-112552","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editors-picks","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA Walk through History and Race in Beer City USA - 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