{"id":113784,"date":"2024-03-14T15:51:53","date_gmt":"2024-03-14T21:51:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=113784"},"modified":"2024-03-14T15:52:05","modified_gmt":"2024-03-14T21:52:05","slug":"bird-brew-a-culinary-coupling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/bird-brew-a-culinary-coupling","title":{"rendered":"Bird + Brew: A Culinary Coupling"},"content":{"rendered":"

The worlds of beer and chicken have been aligned for ages, but it wasn\u2019t until 2021 that chimaek<\/em>, a Korean portmanteau for fried chicken and light beers, was welcomed into the Oxford English Dictionary. This culinary coupling of bird and brew is broader than wings and lagers, though\u2014roasted, grilled, and chile-coated chicken finds local Pilsners, pales, and IPAs to fill that bucket.<\/p>\n

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At Shy Bird<\/a> in Boston, an all-day rotisserie, bar, and cafe, all-natural, pasture-raised birds are transformed into full-flavored spinning showpieces that can be matched with one of six beers on tap, or a dozen by the can. Air-dried for two days to draw some of the moisture out of the skin, the chicken achieves a crispy exterior while the inside stays succulent. \u201cCooked low and slow renders golden brown deliciousness,\u201d says chef Trevor Kunk, who roasts each whole bird for about an hour in an impressive French Rotisol Rotisserie.<\/p>\n

The list of beers to accompany these bronze beauties highlights local craft brews, from traditional K\u00f6lsch to regional New England IPAs. \u201cYounger folks come here very unfamiliar with beer, and ask for a Modelo or Pacifico, a very light cold lager for the right now,\u201d says owner Andrew Holden; instead they suggest a domestic K\u00f6lsch from Notch Brewing<\/a> in Salem, a style that is only slightly assertive (less than a Pilsner), with a straw yellow color, medium body, and softness on the palate to whet the appetite. In a similar vein, session beers have seen a resurgence for their easy-drinking characteristics. \u201cSometimes you want a 4 percent beer that tastes great. Castle Island American Lager<\/a>, started in Southie (Norwood), is [our local] classic,\u201d Holden says. It\u2019s light, crisp, and described as \u201cliquid bliss.\u201d<\/p>\n

Shy Bird\u2019s traditional rotisserie chicken is rubbed with salt, black pepper, ground coriander, and paprika, but Kunk also developed a version that\u2019s lacquered with homemade peri-peri<\/a>, a concoction of jalape\u00f1os, roasted blistered lemons, butter, cilantro, and parsley. \u201cThe chicken absorbs a lot of that sauce; a little spicy, herbaceous, bright, and balanced by a touch of butter.\u201d With this, Kunk suggests an ice-cold K\u00f6lsch, as its light hoppiness will balance out the bird\u2019s complex combination of citrus and spice. \u201cIt\u2019s kind of the opposite of what happens with wine,\u201d Holden chimes in. \u201cI\u2019m such a Beaujolais geek, but if you eat the peri-peri with it, [the heat is] too overpowering; you almost need a Rhone Syrah, Zinfandel, or American Syrah to meet muscle with muscle.\u201d<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not all whole rotisserie chickens at Shy Bird; their so-called \u201cdunks\u201d are a rendition of nuggets made from boneless, skinless breasts that are buttermilk-brined and herb-crusted, each order delivered with a choice of pecorino ranch, chipotle bbq, honey mustard, or sweet & sour sauce. With these, Holden opts for a fowl-friendly 6.8 percent ABV IPA called Birds of a Feather from <\/a>Lamplighter<\/a> Brewing in nearby Cambridge, Mass. The beer is somewhere between an East Coast and West Coast IPA, \u201cdry on the palate, acid and bitterness from the citrus up front, not tropical juicy Orange Julius that hazy [IPAs] have become,\u201d which Holden affirms works with the full scope of sauces. Another adaptable IPA is Fresh Pick, a 7 percent NE IPA from Fort Hill Brewery<\/a> in East Hampton. \u201cIt\u2019s bright and doesn\u2019t leave your mouth feeling cloying or sticky. The sauces do have some bolder flavors, so it\u2019s good to have a beer to hang with you while dunking,\u201d Holden points out.<\/p>\n

In San Francisco\u2019s Mission District, chef Shawn Naputi\u2019s Prubechu<\/a>\u2019 is an ode to his native Guam and Mariana Islands where chicken is prepared in a variety of ways, from the classic, cold kelaguen<\/a> to barbecue and wings. All of the beer at Prubechu\u2019 is local, with the farthest-flung from Ghost Town<\/a> in Oakland. \u201cThey\u2019ve got this old-school German Roggenbier<\/a> [called Closed Casket Bourbon Rye],\u201d Naputi said, describing it as an ale made with a good amount of rye rather than barley or wheat, which drinks more like chicken and whiskey than chicken and beer. For his kelaguen, a laborious and lovely dish, Naputi prefers an IPA from the Bay Area\u2019s own Barebottle Brewing Co.<\/a>. \u201cTheir Galaxy Dust<\/a> is hazy and really complements all the [culinary] components of this chicken.\u201d For the kelaguen, Naputi debones half a chicken and briefly chars it until it\u2019s about 80 to 85 percent done. \u201cThe chicken cooks on a really hot grill, five minutes each side, but not cooked through,\u201d notes Naputi. This method gives it a nice smokiness, and then it\u2019s finished in the oven for another 10 minutes. After that, it\u2019s chopped and doused in lemon juice, which cooks the chicken even further like a ceviche<\/a>, before fresh peppers and green onions are added and the whole thing sits for an hour. Fresh coconut is added before serving. Naputi serves his kelaguen this way or wrapped in titiyas <\/em>(Chamorro-style-flatbreads-meet-flour tortillas) like a taco, a presentation that begs for a beer.<\/p>\n

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For Naputi, Prubechu\u2019s dishes such as BBQ chicken thigh skewers, marinated in soy sauce, vinegar, lemon, garlic, and sesame oil, and his dry-spiced (cumin, coriander, fennel, garlic powder, and numbing Szechuan peppercorn with a little bit of sugar) Ko\u2019ko wings with lemon finadene<\/a> sauce, are all deserving of the perfect pairing. In both dishes, the savory notes come through, with the acid (lemon) lifting up all the textures and flavors. From the restaurant\u2019s perch in San Francisco, a Pilsner from Barrel Brothers<\/a> in Sonoma County hits home. Naputi also recommends \u201ca really bad ass K\u00f6lsch from Standard Deviant Brewing<\/a>, which is six blocks away.\u201d<\/p>\n

But not all beers can stand up to such spice, and there\u2019s no bigger flavor bomb than Hattie B\u2019s<\/a> hot chicken. It\u2019s a Nashville landmark, where chiles collide with craft brews. Brian Morris, Hattie B\u2019s executive chef, describes Nashville hot chicken as \u201cperfect Southern fried chicken, perfect little coating, then the moment of inception when you take and dunk, bathe and baptize it in hot melted spices.\u201d Available bone-in, tenders, or as a sandwich, their spice-heavy chicken ranges from Southern (no heat) to \u201cShut the Cluck Up,\u201d the fieriest. \u201cHow spicy you go changes the ratio\u2014lower in heat, cayenne gets the job done. It drives the bus through mild, medium, and hot,\u201d although Morris warns habanero precedes ghost peppers for unbridled spice. \u201cOur perceived spiciness doubles at each step, up to half a million Scoville\u2014the only pairing then is a fire hydrant.\u201d<\/p>\n

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In 2023, Hattie B’s collaborated with Jackalope Brewing Company<\/a> for a golden ale years in the making. Jackalope CEO\/founder Bailey Spaulding and Nick Bishop Jr., co-founder\/owner of Hattie B\u2019s, have been friends since before they opened their respective businesses, and had been discussing said beer, aka Drinking Buddy, for a decade. It\u2019s now a year-round offering, described as slightly malty with hints of citrus, dry and crisp. \u201cDrinking Buddy has enough body and sweetness to stand up to the heat,\u201d Bishop believes. \u201cYou need a little sweetness to complement the spices.\u201d<\/p>\n

Hattie B\u2019s Memphis location carries WISEACRE Brewing Co.<\/a>\u2019s Tiny Bomb<\/a>, an American Pilsner spiked with wildflower honey, which Morris says has \u201cjust enough residual sugar\u201d to tame the chicken\u2019s heat. Another local brew that Morris recommends is Little Harpeth<\/a>\u2019s Chicken Scratch, which has a hint of sweet corn. Even the IPAs at Bearded Iris Brewing<\/a> in Nashville help counterbalance the heat, but sometimes Deep Ellum<\/a>\u2019s super sessionable Dallas Blonde crosses state lines to become Nashville hot chicken\u2019s latest drinking buddy, which Morris quips, \u201cgo together like a hug and high five.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The worlds of beer and chicken have been aligned for ages, but it wasn\u2019t until 2021 that chimaek, a Korean portmanteau for fried chicken and light beers, was welcomed into the Oxford English Dictionary. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7552,"featured_media":113795,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"94706,103392,52109,108538,35437,96581","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-113784","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBird + Brew: A Culinary Coupling - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The coupling of bird and brew offers unlimited culinary possibilities. 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