{"id":114043,"date":"2024-06-20T15:32:48","date_gmt":"2024-06-20T21:32:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114043"},"modified":"2024-06-20T15:32:58","modified_gmt":"2024-06-20T21:32:58","slug":"meat-malt-beer-makes-burgers-better","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/meat-malt-beer-makes-burgers-better","title":{"rendered":"Meat &amp; Malt: Beer Makes Burgers Better"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>All across the map, whether it\u2019s Wisconsin\u2019s indulgent <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Butter_burger\">butter burger<\/a>, Minnesota\u2019s cheese-stuffed <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jucy_Lucy\">Juicy Lucy<\/a>, or the trendy <a href=\"https:\/\/www.foodandwine.com\/news\/oklahoma-onion-burger-national-treasure\">Oklahoma smashburger<\/a>, you\u2019ll find shining examples of all-American hamburgers. But no matter how you stack it, the only accessory a burger needs is an ice cold beer.<\/p>\n<p>With grilling season underway and Americans consuming an estimated <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pbs.org\/newshour\/science\/the-hidden-costs-of-hamburgers\">50 billion hamburgers annually<\/a>, we talked with beverage directors at top burger restaurants to see what they\u2019re excited about drinking this summer.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620110741\/red-hook-burger-and-beer-in-stein.jpg\" alt=\"red hook cheeseburger and beer in stein\" class=\"wp-image-114050\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<p>Since opening five years ago, Brooklyn\u2019s Red Hook Tavern (RHT) has become a go-to for its seemingly simple, yet singular burger. Owner Billy Durney had mastered all sorts of meat at his <a href=\"https:\/\/hometownbbq.com\/\">Hometown Bar-B-Que<\/a> down the street, but not a burger. He perfected that one at Red Hook Tavern, taking cues from the prime beef program at the 137-year-old <a href=\"https:\/\/peterluger.com\/menu\">Peter Luger Steak House<\/a> in Williamsburg. The dry-aged funk of the RHT burger, a blend of 45-day aged strip and chuck from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lafrieda.com\/\">Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors<\/a>, needs something \u201cclean and crisp, yet hefty enough that it refreshes with each sip,\u201d advises Rafa Garc\u00eda Febles, Red Hook Tavern\u2019s general manager\/beverage director. The burger, which took eight months of R&amp;D, is deliberately minimalist: two slices of American cheese and a raw onion placed strategically beneath the patty to sop up some of the juice. \u201cWe don\u2019t want anything heavy that will make people feel heavier,\u201d explains Febles.<\/p>\n<p>And while wine steals a lot of the attention (they have more than 500 bottles on their list), the beer program is well thought out, revolving mostly around breweries in the five boroughs. \u201cWe operate in a great beer city, and similar to the ethos of our wine list, which is thoughtful small producers who are very involved in the process, we highlight that [in beer] where we can,\u201d says Febles.<\/p>\n<p>Part of the beer list is an ode to another NYC landmark, <a href=\"https:\/\/mcsorleysoldalehouse.nyc\/\">McSorley\u2019s Old Ale House<\/a>, the quintessential 170-year-old saloon in the East Village that famously pours a \u201clight\u201d and a \u201cdark\u201d beer, indistinctly referenced to by their color rather than category. Red Hook Tavern found a porter brewed on Long Island [the dark] and a British ESB [the light], referred to as \u201cA Tribute to McSorley\u2019s Ale House\u201d on the menu without mentioning specific breweries. But those aren\u2019t necessarily the beers Febles would propose for the burger.<\/p>\n<p>His approach to beer pairing is similar to wine. \u201cSometimes it\u2019s about contrasting, and since our food tends to be richer, I tend to gravitate to lighter beer,\u201d such as <a href=\"https:\/\/interboro.nyc\/beer\">Interboro\u2019s hoppy Bushburg Pilsner<\/a> from Brooklyn. Febles also recommends a few other borough-based brews, such as <a href=\"https:\/\/kcbcbeer.com\/beers\/\">KCBC\u2019s<\/a> Iceberg Zombie, a fruited sour, and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.backhomebeer.com\/shop\/back-home-beer-beer\">Sumac <\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.backhomebeer.com\/shop\/back-home-beer-beer\">Gose<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.backhomebeer.com\/shop\/back-home-beer-beer\"> from Back Home Beer<\/a>, an Iranian-inspired beer soured with tart Persian cherries: \u201chigh acid, a little salt, perfect with the food on our menu.\u201d Febles does have a couple more assertive beers on hand, such as <a href=\"https:\/\/otherhalfbrewing.com\/beer\/green-city\/\">Other Half\u2019s Green City IPA<\/a>, which is reminiscent of a lighter, juicier New England-style rather than a piney West Coast version.<\/p>\n<p>On the other side of the country, at any one of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.coastlineburgers.com\/\">Coastline Burgers<\/a>\u2019 three Seattle locations (Kirkland, Redmond, West Seattle), owner Aaron Shepherd sticks to a similar philosophy\u2014 keeping things local. A quarter pound of pasture-raised NW beef comes with a choice of toppings, including American cheese, crisp iceberg lettuce, red onions, and pickles. Or, you can pick from a menu of bestselling burgers such as The Super Bacon (pepper bacon, buttermilk fried onions) or The Spicy BBQ (fresh jalape\u00f1os, pepper jack cheese, fried onion, NW BBQ sauce). All of the burgers are dressed with Coastline\u2019s secret sauce, which Shepherd confesses is his take on Crab Louie dressing that evolved into a \u201cBig Mac\u201d sauce of sorts. All of this sits between a homemade bun that\u2019s something between a chewy ciabatta and sweet brioche that\u2019s \u201clight and fluffy, but has the strength not to fall apart with a juicy burger and all the sauce,\u201d says Shepherd.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620105844\/coastline-burgers-on-tray-with-beers.jpg\" alt=\"coastline burgers and beers and trays\" class=\"wp-image-114046\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620105844\/coastline-burgers-on-tray-with-beers.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620105844\/coastline-burgers-on-tray-with-beers-768x461.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/figure>\n<p>Coastline\u2019s beer list is built on familiar provincial and paternal bonds. \u201cMy dad loved Rainier, calling it Vitamin R, but it\u2019s no longer a local brew,\u201d so Shepherd looked for other easy-drinking alternatives. Georgetown Brewing\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.georgetownbeer.com\/beer\/details\/manny-pale\">Manny\u2019s Pale Ale<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/georgetownbeer.com\/beer\/details\/roger-pils\">Roger\u2019s Pilsner<\/a> are nearby, superlative slightly malty substitutes. The list errs on the lighter side, with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.pfriembeer.com\/beer\/pilsner#tasting-notes\">pFriem Family Brewers\u2019 Pilsner<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodlifebrewing.com\/sweet-as-pacific-ale\/\">GoodLife Brewing Company\u2019s Sweet As! Pacific Ale<\/a>, but also introduces hoppier beers such as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fremontbrewing.com\/interurban\">Fremont\u2019s Interurban IPA<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.hopvalleybrewing.com\/beer\/sports\/kraken-stash-ipa\">Hop Valley Brewing Co.\u2019s Kraken Stash IPA<\/a> into the mix, with the perfect pairing dependent on how you build your burger. No matter what your order is, Shepherd suggests that on \u201ca hot day you just want to go with something nice and light and refreshing. For cold, crummy Seattle days, something a little heartier. Or Manny\u2019s. It\u2019s for all seasons!\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In Chicago, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpmrestaurants.com\/rpm-steak-chicago\/\">RPM Steak<\/a>\u2019s burger and beer pairing is less seasonal than it is tied to its evergreen toppings, or lack thereof. RPM Steak offers up nearly two dozen different cuts of the finest beef sourced from around the globe and also has two vastly different burgers: a Dry-Aged Steakburger and a Wagyu Smash Burger.<\/p>\n<p>Richard Hanauer, partner and wine director of the RPM restaurants, has a two-pronged approach to beer pairing when it comes to burgers. \u201cInitially, it is easy to think the richness [of a dry-aged steakburger] would be elevated by a brown ale\u2014[but] you can\u2019t beat a crisp and cold Pilsner,\u201d professes Hanauer. The subtle saltiness of the burger contrasts the sweetness of the beer, with the carbonation acting \u201clike a steak knife through the meat itself,\u201d he says. \u201cLet the carbonation do the chewing and the bitterness balance the richness of the meat.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620110412\/burger-and-fries-on-white-plate-1000x600-1.jpg\" alt=\"burger and fries on white plate\" class=\"wp-image-114048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620110412\/burger-and-fries-on-white-plate-1000x600-1.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20240620110412\/burger-and-fries-on-white-plate-1000x600-1-768x461.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/figure>\n<p>Hanauer pours <a href=\"https:\/\/outlawbeer.com\/\">Outlaw Beer\u2019s Mile Hi Light Lager<\/a> (brewed by <a href=\"https:\/\/tivolibrewingco.com\/\">Tivoli Brewing Company<\/a> in Denver) for its \u201cdelicate yet complex layers for such an approachable beer. Especially for a beer categorized as light, it drinks with great intensity,\u201d Hanauer says, marveling at its noticeable yeastiness for such a model lager. The Wagyu Smash Burger is best with Chicago\u2019s own <a href=\"https:\/\/pdubs.net\/\">Pipeworks Brewing Co\u2019s<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/untappd.com\/b\/pipeworks-brewing-company-the-lizard-king\/961062\">Lizard King American Pale Ale<\/a>, which pairs with specific flavors in the garnishes rather than the meat. The burger is finished with a yuzu kosho (a spicy Japanese citrus\/pepper paste) aioli that Haunauer says \u201cscreams for Citra hops,\u201d honing in on the tropical touch. Hanauer also attests that the beer is a \u201ctextural pleasure with a great body and pronounced crispness,\u201d priming the palate for more by cutting through the fat without washing away the inherent flavor of the burger itself.<\/p>\n<p>Regardless of customs, environs, or condiments, beer is there to make a burger better.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Regardless of customs, environs, or condiments, beer is there to make a burger better.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7552,"featured_media":114052,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"1590,74201,40290,106514,104619,53247","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114043","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.7 (Yoast SEO v26.7) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Meat &amp; 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