{"id":114199,"date":"2024-09-25T11:06:10","date_gmt":"2024-09-25T17:06:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114199"},"modified":"2024-09-25T13:50:23","modified_gmt":"2024-09-25T19:50:23","slug":"a-dreamy-pairing-beer-ice-cream","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/a-dreamy-pairing-beer-ice-cream","title":{"rendered":"A Dreamy Pairing: Beer & Ice Cream"},"content":{"rendered":"

In his will in 1920, Robert McCay Green, who operated a soda fountain at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia, detailed exactly how his tombstone should be inscribed: \u201cOriginator of the Ice Cream Soda.\u201d This soda fountain specialty, decked with a scoop of frozen dairy that perilously floated on top of a tapered glass full of soda, originated in the late 19th century.<\/p>\n

Green staked his claim to the drink at an exhibition in 1874\u2014150 years ago\u2014using an array of flavored sodas. Since then, cola, root beer, birch beer, and even cream soda, which was created based on the flavor profile of vanilla ice cream, have predominantly served as the base of this fizzy, sweet sensation. At some point, beer, likely a dark ale imitating the color and carbonation of soft drinks, paved the way for an adult version of this foamy, fanciful mash-up.<\/p>\n

Made for Each Other<\/h1>\n

Nick Contess, managing partner of Creamline<\/a>, a burger, fries, and shake joint in New York City\u2019s Chelsea Market<\/a>, believes dark beers are made for ice cream. \u201cIn my head it\u2019s the same way milk brightens coffee,\u201d describes Contess. \u201cRich on rich, but it\u2019s two distinctly different things\u2014the richness of a stout\u2019s strong, full flavor and the sweetness of dairy.\u201d<\/p>\n

The restaurant is best known for its indulgent milkshakes, but this past summer Contess brought back what he calls \u201ca lighter option\u201d: boozy beer floats. \u201cA lot of people don\u2019t drink stout in the summer,\u201d he says, but the addition of ice cream makes them more suited to the season.<\/p>\n

Creamline has a beer list entirely focused on New York State brews, including Montauk Wave Chaser IPA<\/a>, Five Boroughs<\/a> Hoppy Lager, and Torch & Crown\u2019<\/a>s Pils. Contess says that choosing a beer for a float isn\u2019t really about the booze, it\u2019s about the mouthfeel. Both beer and ice cream should complement each other\u2019s creaminess. For Creamline\u2019s floats, Contess typically uses Brooklyn\u2019s Ebbs<\/a> Stout No. 1, which pours inky black with a tawny head, and smacks of dark chocolate and light coffee roasts. Hudson Valley Brewery<\/a>\u2019s English-style milds, such as Erstwhile<\/a>, make good options, too. Because these ice cream and beer pairings were working so well, Contess tried to make a stout milkshake, although it didn\u2019t homogenize in the way he\u2019d hoped. He instead steers people to a float as \u201ca great introduction into heavy beers\u201d for those who would otherwise never try one.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe like to incorporate local craft beers [into our menus] to rep where we came from\u2014it\u2019s in our DNA,\u201d says Stephen Parker, corporate executive chef of Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer<\/a>, who notes that half of the taps at the chain\u2019s location in NYC\u2019s SoHo are craft beers. In Vegas, 14 of the 16 lines are craft. But Parker bears in mind that not all beers are meant for dessert. \u201cNew Belgium\u2019s Voodoo Ranger IPA<\/a> is great for summer heat, and strong at 6.7 percent ABV.\u201d Some IPAs are too high in alcohol, and bittering agents, that ruin your palate, even for ice cream.<\/p>\n

\"decorated<\/figure>\n

With that in mind, Black Tap made a special aged beer with Threes Brewing<\/a> in Brooklyn, fermented with cherries and reminiscent of cherry cobbler, which can be served \u00e0 la mode in a shake.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019re not just pouring lager into a milkshake and calling it a boozy milkshake,\u201d says Parker, and although any beer is an option for addition, their Brooklyn Blackout CRAZYSHAKE\u00ae brims with a chocolate frosted rim and mini chocolate chips topped with two chocolate brownies, whipped cream, and chocolate drizzle. A stout is the practical pour.<\/p>\n

Thinking in reverse, milkshake IPAs seem like an obvious choice for experimentation, as they\u2019re brewed with the same lactose (milk sugar) that ice cream is full of\u2014adjuncts in the beer commonly include dessert-forward flavors such as vanilla, chocolate, peanut butter, and tropical fruits. \u201c[A little] lactose takes down hoppiness, making the beers easier to drink,\u201d says Parker. \u201cIn beer floats, ice cream acts the same way.\u201d To prove a point, he conjures up a new CRAZYSHAKE idea on the spot; a milkshake IPA with orange juice, orange peel, and vanilla ice cream. \u201cIt would taste like a creamsicle!\u201d<\/p>\n

The Upside Down<\/h1>\n

Rather than adding ice cream to beer, Tyler Malek, co-founder and head of innovation at Salt & Straw<\/a>, Portland, Oregon\u2019s homegrown ice cream company, is adding beer to ice cream. For Salt & Straw\u2019s June 2024 Pints of the Month Pack<\/a>, part of Salt & Straw\u2019s Brewers Series<\/a>, Malek worked with five U.S. breweries, including Portland\u2019s Breakside<\/a>, Seattle\u2019s M\u00e9tier Brewing Company<\/a>, NorCal\u2019s Russian River<\/a>, SoCal\u2019s Monkish<\/a>, and Miami\u2019s La Tropical<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis has been one of my passion projects for almost 14 years, since I started Salt & Straw,\u201d says Malek, who thinks beer and ice cream have had parallel paths in craft. \u201cMalt, hops, and water; cream, sugar, and vanilla\u2014millions of different flavors come out of those [few] ingredients.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"ice<\/figure>\n

Brewer Ben Edmunds started Breakside six months before Salt & Straw. \u201cWe\u2019re three blocks away from each other; we kind of grew up together,\u201d says Malek. They\u2019ve brewed a Salted Caramel Stout<\/a> together, based off of one of Salt & Straw most popular flavors, but for the ice cream collaboration, the two devised a custom barrel-aged chocolate stout named Shasta Taffy<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe beer is steeped with cocoa nibs for four days, which are then dried out and folded into chocolate to create a chocolate bark,\u201d reveals Malek. That same beer is added to the base for Breakside\u2019s Barrel-Aged Chocolate Stout ice cream, before being swirled with chocolate bark and combined with a housemade tres leches cake.<\/p>\n

For Malek, there are so many cool ways that beer and ice cream can interact, starting with temperature. \u201cThere are three edible antifreezes: salt, sugar, and alcohol,\u201dsays Malek, noting that they have to be at the right ratio to keep ice cream scoopable. \u201cFrom a food science perspective, they all help flavors melt into your tastebuds.\u201d<\/p>\n

Monkish\u2019s Space Cookies & Cream Hazy IPA was a happy accident, says Malek. \u201c[The beer has] a creamy mouthfeel so we\u2019re making ice cream out of it.\u201d To amp up the hop flavors they dry hopped with Citra a few times, but the kicker was adding a little bit of grape zest to punch that last flavor note through, sandwiched between Nilla Wafer cookie butter bits.<\/p>\n

Malek also worked with Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River, using Supplication<\/a>, a sour brown ale aged in Pinot Noir barrels with sour cherries, and didn\u2019t try to recreate a thing. \u201cIt takes 14 months to make,\u201d stated Malek of the coveted beer, musing, \u201cHow does this beer never touch heat?\u201d He tried to create a frame for the beer instead, deciding to melt chocolate, pour the beer over it for a fudge-like texture, and then make a manchego beer base ice cream with vanilla, which held up to the natural lacto-fermentation of Supplication itself. Malek then took the steeped cherries from the barrel and made a marmalade, the totality acting as a beer and cheese pairing\u2014because isn\u2019t that what beer and ice cream inevitably is?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ice cream soda floated into our collective consciousness 150 years ago. Now, a beery take on this fanciful beverage is winning converts.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7552,"featured_media":114201,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"93804,79820,90652,108618,26424,16541","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114199","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA Dreamy Pairing: Beer & Ice Cream - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Ice cream soda floated into our collective consciousness 150 years ago. 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