{"id":114219,"date":"2024-10-24T14:47:04","date_gmt":"2024-10-24T20:47:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114219"},"modified":"2024-10-24T14:47:07","modified_gmt":"2024-10-24T20:47:07","slug":"tacos-beer-fueling-the-yakima-valleys-hop-harvest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/tacos-beer-fueling-the-yakima-valleys-hop-harvest","title":{"rendered":"Tacos & Beer: Fueling the Yakima Valley’s Hop Harvest"},"content":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s early September at Segal Ranch<\/a> in Grandview, Washington, and farmhands are reaping verdant rows of ripe hops. But I\u2019m inside the farm\u2019s main office, ready to perform another important task: tasting the salsa.<\/p>\n

As I stand inside the ranch\u2019s cramped kitchen, where owner John Segal Jr. is stirring refried beans on the stove, office manager Delia Ramos extends a bowl of the crimson condiment. Segal and I scoop some up with tortilla chips. The salsa is warm with a low-simmering heat. I go back for a second chip. \u201cIt\u2019s good for gringos,\u201d Ramos says, smiling. The salsa is just one component to Segal Ranch\u2019s annual harvest tradition, a taco party.<\/p>\n

There\u2019s an old saying in winemaking that it takes a lot of great beer to make great wine. But in the brewing industry, it takes plenty of great tacos to make great beer. During harvest, Yakima Valley hop farms invite brewers to their ranches to hand-select hop varieties, treating them to tacos and tamales every bit as memorable as just-picked Citra hops.<\/p>\n

\"plate
\u00a9Yakima Valley Tourism<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

[Related on CraftBeer.com: Taco Tuesday!<\/a>]<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Segal Ranch started its taco party tradition in 2010 to help sell the story, and hop quality, of the family-run farm. Segal invited former Lagunitas Brewing<\/a> owner Tony Magee and Jeremy Marshall, the brewmaster, to tour the farm, select hops, eat Mexican food, and listen to a mariachi band. Seeing the farm up close, tacos in hand, turned a transaction into a lasting relationship.<\/p>\n

News spread, and soon Russian River<\/a>, Allagash<\/a>, Bell\u2019s<\/a>, and other breweries were heading to Segal Ranch to mix business with salsa made from peppers grown on the farm by manager Martin Ramos, who also grows and breeds Segal\u2019s hops. (He\u2019s Delia\u2019s brother.) Today is the first of the season\u2019s 11 taco parties, including visits from Tree House<\/a>, Great Lakes<\/a>, and Firestone Walker<\/a>, all of which buy hops from Segal. An Odell Brewing<\/a> contingent will arrive soon, the tacos helping Segal create a lasting bond wrapped in Delia\u2019s handmade tortillas.<\/p>\n

\u201cI tell brewers that it\u2019s like going to a farmers\u2019 market in August and everyone has good tomatoes,\u201d Segal says. \u201cBut then you get to know one family that grows very good tomatoes and you want to do business with them.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Rise of Yakima Hops<\/h2>\n

I arrive hungry and curious in the Yakima Valley, struck by the landscape\u2019s arid expanses punctuated by lush hop fields. After grabbing a quartet of tasty tacos, including birria and al pastor, at Javi\u2019s Chicken and Churros<\/a> in Sunnyside, I dig into history. The Yakima Valley was once a sagebrush-covered desert landscape with around 300 days of sunshine and minimal rainfall. The first irrigation ditch arrived in 1864<\/a>, and settlers transformed the region into an agricultural powerhouse producing apples, grapes, pears, cherries, and hops. The foundational beer ingredient took root in the early 1870s, and today the Yakima Valley accounts for some 75 percent of America\u2019s hop production.<\/p>\n

\"fresh<\/figure>\n

Harvest typically begins in late August, kicking off an around-the-clock rush that lasts about a month. Historically, hop farms relied on a largely Mexican migrant workforce that followed the harvests, typically winding a route from Texas to California and Washington to pick produce along with plentiful Pacific Northwest hops. (Tightening border restrictions, aging laborers, and competing job opportunities have led to labor shortages. To shore up the ranks, hop farms hire seasonal workers, many from Mexico, who travel to America on temporary H-2A visas and return after the harvest<\/em>.)<\/p>\n

Today, Yakima County\u2019s population is more than 50 percent Hispanic. With all of these migrants came really great Mexican food, and Yakima Valley now features best-in-class taco trucks and restaurants. Los Hern\u00e1ndez Tamales<\/a>, in Union Gap, Washington, won a James Beard Award for its tamales made with cactus and locally grown asparagus.<\/p>\n

Los Panchos<\/a>, a tiny shack tucked off the main drag in Toppenish, is a favorite of Alexandra Nowell, a cofounder and brewer at the forthcoming Mellotone Beer Project<\/a> in Cincinnati. \u201cThe tacos were some of the best I\u2019ve had in my countless trips to Yakima,\u201d she says. \u201cPollo is their specialty, and they\u2019re grilling it over wood outside.\u201d<\/p>\n

I spot the sidewalk fire when I visit, and the chicken tacos are as advertised. A crunchy, textural mix of fire-charred chicken is set on supple handmade tortillas no bigger than my palm. I could devour them daily and never tire of those tacos.<\/p>\n

Beans, Meat & Beers<\/h2>\n

For both brewers and drinkers, tacos serve as much-needed sustenance. After downing stellar afternoon double IPAs at Varietal Beer<\/a>, an IPA specialist in Sunnyside, I need more tacos to balance things out. Co-owner and head brewer Chris Baum steers me to Tacos El Pellon II<\/a>, a truck located in a nearby O\u2019Reilly Auto Parts parking lot. \u201cThat\u2019s where I usually take everybody,\u201d he says. \u201cThe trifecta is cabeza, carnitas, and chicharr\u00f3n.\u201d I follow orders. The tacos are topped with pinto beans and crunchy slivers of iceberg lettuce, a warm-cool contrast to the crispy meat. The tacos are also served with a plank of cotija cheese that I nibble on as I head about 30 miles northwest to Loza Farms<\/a> in Wapato, Washington.<\/p>\n

\n
\"plate
\u00a9 Central Washington Hispanic Chamber of Commerce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

\u201cThe Mexican food in Yakima is, bar none, some of the best Mexican food you will ever have,\u201d says farm manager Leon \u201cJunior\u201d Loza. Junior\u2019s father first came to the Yakima Valley from Mexico in 1976, eventually purchasing a 56-acre hop farm in 2006. Loza Farms now encompasses 360 acres, where America\u2019s only Hispanic-owned hop farm produces Comet and Citra hops used by breweries across the U.S., including Cellarmaker<\/a> and Other Half<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Junior is one of four siblings to work the farm, and today he\u2019s flitting between Spanish and English on his walkie-talkie, tackling harvest hiccups while showing me the grounds. \u201cRight now we\u2019re in Amarillos,\u201d he says, pointing to the hanging bines heading to the picking machine that will separate cones from leaves and other vegetal matter. The machinery is a mechanical ballet, full of whirring belts and conveyors delivering the plump cones to kilns to dry.<\/p>\n

Loza\u2019s multi-million-dollar picking machine is a pricey, persnickety employee. Motors malfunction. Shafts break. The farm fabricates replacement parts to minimize costs and downtime. \u201cWe\u2019re 30 minutes from any place that sells parts,\u201d says Junior, who has worked every harvest since he was 13. (He\u2019s now 42.) \u201cAny way you can bring down costs, it\u2019s a dollar more to spend somewhere else.\u201d That could mean paying workers overtime, which farms are trying to minimize, or supplying housing for workers.<\/p>\n

The farm\u2019s Mexican heritage draws from Mexican craft breweries such as Cerveza Minerva <\/a>and Morenos<\/a> during harvest. \u201cSeeing them here at our farm is super exciting for us, especially since my parents were born in Mexico,\u201d Junior says. \u201cIt’s cool to see a product that they came to Mexico to grow, return back to Mexico in beer.\u201d<\/p>\n

To celebrate, Loza Farm hosts a party for Mexican breweries in town for hop selection, and breweries from as far afield as Italy and New Zealand attend, too. Tacos are served, as well as surprises like a trained opera singer-turned-brewer belting tunes. \u201cIt becomes a potluck of beers with food,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Drinking on the Job Site<\/h2>\n

Drinking beer at a hop farm is not common. Hop farms are, first and foremost, agricultural operations. But wineries are located in vineyards. Why are breweries not headquartered at hop farms? One exception is Bale Breaker Brewing<\/a>, located about 20 miles northeast of Loza in Yakima, where I head next for, yes, more tacos and IPAs.<\/p>\n

Bale Breaker\u2019s brewery and taproom is carved from a hop field at Loftus Ranches<\/a>, which dates to 1932. Siblings and Loftus scions Kevin Smith and Meghann Quinn, along with Meghann\u2019s husband, Kevin Quinn, run the brewery where their homegrown hops are celebrated in the IPAs Bottomcutter<\/a> and Topcutter<\/a>. They\u2019re named after the machines that cut hop bines from the plant\u2019s base and the top that\u2019s attached to a trellis.<\/p>\n

\"hop
\u00a9 Bale Breaker Brewing<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cSometimes when we open our windows in the morning, you can tell when [we\u2019re picking different] hop varieties,\u201d Meghann says of the harvest.<\/p>\n

Bale Breaker is in the middle of a hectic stretch of brewing fresh-hop beers, at least a dozen, collaborations included, that will drop throughout September and October. None are ready yet, but I do try an IPA brewed with zesty, tropical Krush hops<\/a>, one of the newest hop varieties.<\/p>\n

The IPA is a great companion to my crispy quesabirria tacos, a mix of tender stewed beef and mild melted cheese, from the That Guy That Cooks<\/a> food truck stationed outside. Those might be my ninth or eighth tacos today. At this point, keeping count is futile.<\/p>\n

Clients Love Tacos<\/h2>\n

Around the Yakima Valley, tacos are not just ballast for drinking your body weight in IPAs. One morning, when I arrive at Morrier Ranch<\/a>, a 500-acre Yakima farm that has grown hops since 1904, Liz Morrier McGree has a plate of tacos ready for me at 10:45 a.m. They\u2019re from a taco truck that arrives daily for the ranch workers\u2019 lunch break.<\/p>\n

At nearby CLS Farms<\/a>, which oversees 2,400 acres and 27 hop varieties, including proprietary El Dorado<\/a> and the world\u2019s largest Centennial crop, the lunch whistle sounds around 10 a.m. during harvest. A taco truck awaits.<\/p>\n

\n
\"cooler<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

CLS has reduced acreage over the last several years and expanded into growing fruits such as apples, pears, plums, and peaches. Growing fruit keeps valuable employees gainfully employed as CLS rides the hop industry\u2019s boom-bust roller coaster. Business soared when breweries needed hops, and lots of them, to create triple dry-hopped double IPAs. Excess is out of style, and hop acreage nationwide shrunk from a high of around 61,000 acres in 2021 to 44,000 acres this year, a rightsizing of production for a brewing industry decoding post-pandemic drinking behavior.<\/p>\n

In a difficult brewing environment, inviting brewers to hop farms for tacos, beer, and business can foster a deeper tie, turning a necessary purchase into a memorable experience that drives repeat business each year. \u201cThis need for connection and understanding has been most meaningful to our family and farm,\u201d said Shelley Desmarais, who co-owns CLS with her husband, Eric. CLS runs an annual harvest party at night, when the clinks, clanks, and hums of hops traveling through machinery contrast the quiet of starry darkness. \u201cAt night there\u2019s less everything, and it\u2019s a special time for people to come to the farm,\u201d Desmarais said.<\/p>\n

Back at Segal Ranch, farm manager Martin Ramos is tending the grill, searing sausages, chicken, short ribs, marinated pork riblets, and carne asada. \u201cWe do five different proteins, which I think is too much, but we\u2019re locked into the tradition,\u201d John Segal says.<\/p>\n

The BBQ is a big production, but the payoff in growing a loyal clientele, one taco at a time, can be counted in acreage. When Segal started the tradition in 2010, the family farm only cultivated 83 acres and was in danger of closing; this year, it\u2019s cultivating more than 400 acres of in-demand Cascade and Centennial hops, plus the burgeoning varieties Zumo, Anchovy, and Tangier. \u201cThe farm wouldn\u2019t be where it is today without the barbecues,\u201d Segal says. \u201cOur farm-to-brewery approach has built some really good loyalty and relationships.\u201d As has Mexican food.<\/p>\n

A long table is soon topped with a DIY taco spread, including those beans, grilled meats, steaming handmade tortillas, and a ghost pepper salsa that singes my tongue. A cooler contains Russian River\u2019s Pliny the Elder<\/a> and Stone Brewing\u2019s <\/a>Zumology<\/a> IPA<\/a> that stars the lime-like Zumo hop, a recent addition at Segal. Containers of Centennial hops sit in Segal\u2019s office, ready to be rubbed, sniffed, and selected for Odell\u2019s flagship IPA. Business can wait. There\u2019s plenty to talk about in the hops business, but the tacos come first.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There\u2019s an old saying in winemaking that it takes a lot of great beer to make great wine. But in the brewing industry, it takes plenty of great tacos to make great beer.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7582,"featured_media":114223,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"89120,76851,86939,44728,105798,110439","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114219","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nTacos & Beer: Fueling the Yakima Valley's Hop Harvest - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"They say in winemaking that it takes a lot of great beer to make great wine. 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