14th Star Brewing, St. Albans, Vt.

Vermont’s 14th Star Brewing arose from Steve Gagner’ and Matt Kehaya’s need to alleviate boredom while stationed in the remote mountains of Afghanistan and their desire to imagine a post-war future. The two friends filled time between dodging rockets and mortars by mapping out a plan to turn their homebrewing hobby into a full-scale brewery.

After returning to the U.S. in 2011 to continue their military careers, Gagner and Kehaya were still kicking around the idea and began putting realistic costs and details to the rough estimates they had scribbled in a green army notebook. Ultimately, Gagner’s wife pushed them to march over the final hill and open a business. Says Gagner, “My wife finally said, ‘Are you going to do it or not? I’m tired of hearing about it.’ So we thought screw it, let’s try it.”

At first, the founders worked their military day jobs while simultaneously running the brewery. For Gagner, this meant waking up at 4 a.m., checking the brewery, commuting to his full-time job, returning home to his family, then making a late-evening check on brewing operations and emails. At the time, the brewery was only open limited hours, primarily weekends.

Both owners recently retired from decades-long military careers to devote more time to the brewery and other passions. Like many former servicepeople, Gagner believes that skills learned in the military contribute immensely to managing and operating a business. “In terms of leadership and management, I think the military uniquely positions people to be entrepreneurs and business leaders,” he says. “It was remarkably translatable. When you’re in the service, even though you don’t realize it, you’re part of the world’s best leadership education program.”

Gagner also believes that military training prepared him and Kehaya for brewing quality beers. “Our time in the military taught us how to systematize and manage procedures. Only when you have that understanding of the processes and the system can you make those small changes and innovations to bring new products to market.”

For former Army Infantry Officer Gagner and 1st Sgt. Kehaya, Veterans Day inspires an appreciation for current and future generations of servicepeople. “So many young men and women each year commit to serve others. I don’t know that there’s a greater gift that anyone can give,” says Gagner, adding, “I’m remarkably grateful for what those servicemen and women pledge to do.”

With their military service behind them, Gagner and Kehaya have strengthened their focus on using 14th Star to serve locally. “It’s part of our mission statement to help out communities, both the local community and the veteran community,” says Gagner.

14th Star’s largest annual fundraiser supports the Josh Pallotta Fund. Pallotta served with Gagner and Kehaya and later took his own life due to PTSD. The fund, started by Pallotta’s parents, supports a wellness and recreation space for veterans along with outreach and suicide prevention programs. The brewery also creates brews that support specific non-profits across a wide range of causes from Alzheimer’s to adaptive sports to food banks.

Launch Pad Brewery, Aurora, Colo.

Colorado’s Launch Pad Brewery grew from a similar connection born of military service. Founders Dave Levesque and Henry Rusch met while working for defense contractors after their military duty. Levesque served in the Air Force as a nuclear missile maintainer and intelligence specialist. Rusch served as an intelligence specialist and currently serves in the reserves. The two bonded over their shared military backgrounds and became best friends.

A longtime homebrewer, Levesque said his friends commented that his pumpkin beer was better than anything commercially available and suggested opening a brewery. The thought stuck.

“I started writing a business plan and asked my best friend Henry if he wanted to start a brewery. He informed me he didn’t know anything about beer, so I asked him if he had good credit. He said yes and that is how we started Launch Pad,” jokes Levesque.

On a more serious side, Levesque and Rusch noticed that for veterans, leaving the military meant leaving a tight-knit community where everyone shared common experiences. “One of the things missing was the camaraderie and family feeling you have while enlisted. By creating a brewery, we were able to attain that feeling again, everybody coming together and enjoying something as a crew/family,” says Levesque.

The owners intentionally located the taproom near Buckley Space Force Base where it serves as a hangout for servicepeople and civilians alike. In addition to space-themed brews, the taproom reflects the community’s military connections. Patches from different branches of the military cover the wall behind the taps. Meanwhile, televisions show footage of rocket launches.

Launch Pad also partners with the local Wings Over the Rockies air museum to furnish the taproom with scale-model versions of rockets and satellites along with other historical references. The brewery has even extended its hours to host live launch watch parties.

Naturally, Launch Pad supports military-related organizations. The brewery hosts meetings for the Colorado Defense Counsel and events for Buckley SFB. It also hosts fundraisers for the Colorado Freedom Memorial, Colorado Freedom Hunters, and American Heroes in Action among others. Says Levesque, “We try to be as involved with veteran/military/first-responder groups as possible, and we have a monthly donation that we provide to a lot of these organizations.”

Launch Pad’s founders realize that their armed forces background offered uniquely applicable training for running a brewery. Says Levesque, “You must be able to transition and pivot in a moment’s notice to a changing environment. Having to manage employees is another daily requirement. These are all skills that were taught in the military.”

For Levesque, “Veterans Day is a significant holiday for us at the brewery to remember all active members and veterans of all military branches and first responders. It provides an environment for individuals to come together and share experiences and stories about their lives and service. It also helps create that family/camaraderie-type environment that was lost when leaving the active force.”

Service Brewing, Savannah, Ga.

Service Brewing in Savannah, Ga., also celebrates veterans in its taproom and through community involvement. Co-founder and Army veteran Kevin Ryan started homebrewing with a kit that his wife, brewery co-founder Meredith Sutton, gave him. He enjoyed the creative aspect of brewing and also wanted to create a community gathering space. After connecting with like-minded veterans who became investors, Service Brewing was born.

Ryan explains that his time in the service in many ways influenced his passion for brewing. “Brewing is all about working with your hands, creating something from the raw materials available, nurturing the beer through the brewing process, and being able to execute with precision. Discipline and precision are two principles both the military and brewing process share.”

He also believes that military experience offers excellent preparation for the unexpected challenges that brewers face, both in brewing and managing a taproom. According to Ryan, flexibility and adaptability are critical. “Adapt and overcome! We learn that early on in the military and it applies every day in the brewery, regardless of how much planning we have conducted.”

Themed beer names and the décor infuse military concepts throughout the brewery. The taproom includes murals with military designs, light panels made of stretched parachute material, and a riveted, zinc-wrapped bar that mimics the exterior of a fighter jet.

True to its name, Service gives back to the community. The brewery partners with numerous nonprofits, and of course veteran-focused organizations feature prominently. Says Sutton, “Every six months we choose a veteran/first responder charity to donate a portion of every pint we sell in our taproom.” So far, the brewery has donated over $250,000 to charities like the Warrior Music Foundation and Veterans Healing Farm.

Ryan eloquently sums up the sentiments of all the veteran-owners we talked to. “Veterans Day is a celebration of those who have dedicated themselves to a greater cause. All veterans have made sacrifices in support of their country and community in some way. We celebrate our veterans every day, but Veteran’s Day is that one day a year where the spotlight really shines in celebration and thanks for our veterans.”

The post A Salute to Veteran-Owned Breweries appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

Two of beer’s primary ingredients, hops and barley, offer the best possibilities for sustainable production. Barley in particular can be farmed in ways that support water conservation, soil preservation, and carbon reduction. Meanwhile, low-water hop varieties like Neomexicanus, a hop native to the American Southwest, also reduce a brew’s impact.

Water Conservation

Arizona Wilderness Brewing in Phoenix, Ariz., sits in a part of the country where water scarcity has become critical. About five years ago, the outdoor-focused brewery realized that its choice of ingredients—malt in particular—could have an outsized influence on water conservation in its parched home state. As a result, the brewery became a key player in a partnership fostered by The Nature Conservancy to help preserve the Verde River.

The conservancy hoped to encourage farms to switch to early-season crops that grow when river water is more plentiful and there is less waste due to desert heat. With the growing popularity of craft beer, the conservancy hit on a solution: barley. However, to make that solution economically viable, farmers needed a market for the grain. Consequently, the conservancy supported the establishment of craft maltster Sinagua Malt to roast the raw barley and create a marketable product. At the same time, it solicited local breweries to create demand.

The concept resonated with Arizona Wilderness and the brewery has become the malthouse’s primary customer, currently buying 80 percent of Sinagua’s output. According to Zach Fowle, head of marketing for the brewery, this partnership benefits everyone from farmer to consumer. “It’s a win-win for everyone involved. It’s a market-based solution that doesn’t require any sacrifices.”

Focusing on sustainable ingredients makes a bigger difference than anything Arizona Wilderness could do in the brewhouse, insists Fowle. “Any water we save on that end will pale by comparison with the farms on the front end.” He adds, “According to the math that we’ve been able to do, every pint of beer that we sell equates to about 50 gallons of water for Arizona’s waterways.”

In 2022 the brewery added hops to its conservation efforts. It brewed a beer named This Beer Saves Water using low-water hops and Sinagua malt. The goal is to raise awareness of Arizona’s water issues among craft beer lovers. “We really wanted to drive home the point of water saving, the water crisis in Arizona, and why people should care,” says Fowle.

Arizona Wilderness sources other ingredients locally as well, particularly those grown in waterwise ways. For example, the brewery makes three different beers using drip-irrigated watermelons. Fowle contends that the brewery helps create a market for crops that wouldn’t otherwise be economically feasible. He describes the effort as “using the beers that we make to encourage responsible choices in what farmers decide to grow.”

Additionally, buying locally has a much lower transportation footprint than trans-continental or trans-oceanic shipping. “As much as we can work with Sinagua and local groups, it cuts back on the carbon footprint of that malt. Working with these local farms helps in more ways than just water,” says Fowle. Fresh Arizona produce also makes for tastier beer while keeping money in the local community.

Sustainable Agriculture

Colorado breweries are also recognizing the benefits of sustainable, local agriculture. Root Shoot Malting in northern Colorado is a combination farm and craft malthouse that has gained popularity with breweries in Denver and across the state. The farm grows barley using sustainable and regenerative agriculture while protecting green space from suburban encroachment.

What started decades ago as a family farm expanded to include a malthouse in 2016 after owners Emily and Todd Olander observed the meteoric growth of craft beer. Along the way they realized that sustainable, and ultimately regenerative, agriculture would play a significant role in keeping Colorado agriculture viable in the face of environmental and development pressures.

While there’s a difference between sustainable and regenerative farming, Todd Olander believes that both play important roles in reducing the environmental impact of craft beer’s core ingredients. In a nutshell, sustainable farming doesn’t damage or reduce resources, while regenerative farming actually improves the quality of the land.

To support these goals, the Olanders rotate crops every year and undertake additional annual maintenance work. After the barley harvest in July, they plant cover crops, then turn cattle loose to feast. Both tasks improve soil chemistry and nutrition. It’s a more detail-oriented process than traditional farming but Olander believes it’s worth it. “If we can have healthier soil that is more resilient, we can grow a healthier and more profitable crop.”

The Olanders also believe it’s important to sustain the farming lifestyle and guarantee the food supply for future generations. To this end, the couple has worked with local nonprofit Colorado Open Lands to put conservation easements on their property. These easements allow continued farming while permanently preventing additional development. Future farmers will have available land and the community will enjoy the views and environmental benefits of green space.

The Olanders’ ultimate goal is to use fewer scarce resources and artificial chemical inputs like pesticides and fertilizers while crafting high-quality barley and malt. The approach is clearly working, as Root Shoot won medals in every category at the 2023 Malt Cup.

A Positive Impact

Bruz Beers in Denver is one of dozens of local breweries brewing with Root Shoot. The brewery relies on the craft maltster for over 90 percent of its malt. Co-founder Ryan Evans and head brewer Dave Olson buy from Root Shoot because of its positive impact on the local environment and because of the quality.

Olson explains that Root Shoot can and must be more thoughtful about resource usage due to its size. “As a small family farm, they’re going to use less water, they’re going to use less pesticides, they’re going to use less of everything. Everything is going to be less because they can’t afford to just sweep everything (with chemicals).”

In addition to less-impactful farming, Bruz values Root Shoot’s proximity to the brewery because it limits the malt’s transportation footprint. Explains Olson, “I either drive up there or they bring it to us. One forklift, one truck. That’s significantly more sustainable.” Additionally, Root Shoot can supply multiple breweries with a single trip of its truck.

Even the farm’s layout reduces the grain’s carbon footprint because the farthest field is only 10 miles from the malthouse. “A huge step toward sustainability is shortening the supply chain,” Olander says. “My goal is to be carbon-negative or carbon-neutral.”

For Olson, the quality of the ingredients and the beers they let him create more than offset the increased costs that come with buying from small growers. “I’m the brewer and to me what’s in your glass is the same as what’s hanging on the brewery’s walls. It’s the art and it wouldn’t feel as artistic to me if I bought industrial.”

Bruz makes several 100-percent- Colorado brews using locally grown ingredients like cantaloupes, peaches, and chiles. It also contracts with Colorado’s award-winning Billy Goat Farms for hops and buys from a local yeast propagator.

Doing the Right Thing

Ultimately, craft beer drinkers come out winners through better beers and a more sustainable local environment, whether they know it or not. Most customers are unaware of the environmental ramifications of the pint they’re drinking. Fortunately, breweries understand the underlying value and benefits of sustainability.

Says Olson, “I think the average consumer doesn’t inherently care,” explaining that Bruz’s choice of ingredients is driven by the brewery’s own values. “It’s really more about what we want. I’m not doing it for the customer. I’m doing it for me and the guys that I’m buying it from.”

Adds Evans, “It’s about doing the right thing.”

Fowle recognizes the same challenges but sees cause for optimism. “It’s a difficult story to tell,” he says, but adds, “Over time I think the consumers are understanding, especially as the water crisis in Arizona becomes more severe people are open to learning more. We’re seeing more and more that the people who are coming to our brewery are aware of those messages and making the choice.”

Ultimately, brewers care about the long-term impact they can have on their customers, communities, and the environment. “Buying sustainably is going to be better in the long run for our customers, their housing, their state, and what they get out of living in this area,” says Olson.

The post Treading Lightly: Breweries Reduce Environmental Impact appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

One of the pioneers of the movement is California’s Firestone Walker, which has been making cocktail-inspired creations since 2017. Their series of barrel-aged brews is spearheaded by barrel meister Eric Ponce, himself a lover of complex craft cocktails.

Ponce joined Firestone Walker when the brewery wanted to introduce more range and adventure into its already-successful barrel-aging program. His first beer was Dark & Stormy, in the tradition of the rum-based drink. Ponce has gone on to leverage Firestone Walker’s size and connections to obtain an incredible variety of barrels, from traditional bourbon to absinthe, cognac, and mezcal.

Ponce and his wife both enjoy a complex and nuanced cocktail, and he draws inspiration from flavor profiles they discover. With a notebook full of ideas, Ponce starts strategizing how to get the flavors he wants from beer, natural ingredients, and most importantly, barrels.

At the start of the process Ponce considers, “What cocktail do I love? What cocktail can I make without having to use extracts or oils? What’s the base beer I want to use?”

When deciding on base beers, Ponce considers the fact that certain beer styles naturally pair with certain liquor flavors. For example, blondes work better with gin and rum, while flavorful dark beers offset the strong and boozy flavors of whiskey or bourbon.

From there, he moves on to the nitty-gritty of sampling and blending. “I start pulling samples from different barrels, different base beers until I get the mouthfeel and color that the cocktail has,” he says.

One of Ponce’s secret weapons is bitters. Bitters, which comes in numerous flavors including orange and cherry, is used to add depth to complex cocktails. It also happens to be aged in barrels. By blending small quantities of beer aged in bitters barrels, Ponce authentically re-creates the nuances of classic cocktails.

For Ponce, discovering the potential of bitters barrels was a breakthrough. “It was so intense. It was like you open up a bottle of bitters and only use one drop and it really opens up that cocktail. Once I started tasting through these, I got goosebumps and a smile on my face.”

Ponce uses unadulterated ingredients to create desired flavors, colors, and textures. Instead of syrups and flavorings, he experiments with additions like hibiscus tea, which he incorporated into Tequila Barrel Sunrise to replicate the color, acidity, and flavor of that cocktail.

Some of the beers Ponce is most proud of are Royal Street and Mezca-Limón. Royal Street re-creates a Sazerac and was a huge score for Ponce because of the rarity of absinthe barrels. “I love absinthe. I love Sazerac,” says Ponce. “Sazerac cocktails have been on my mind, but I’d never been able to get any absinthe barrels.” To create the traditional flavors, he blended beer aged in American rye whiskey barrels with beer from absinthe and bitters barrels. He topped it off with fresh, locally sourced lemon zest.

Mezca-Limón replicates a mezcalita, a smoky orange cocktail that was also on Ponce’s wish list for years. It was a dream come true when he finally got ahold of a truckload of mezcal barrels.

Ponce brewed the base beer with no roasted malt to keep it light and added flaked corn for body. “I wanted it to be a big blonde imperial just to showcase the barrels.” He carefully considered what kind of barrel blend would re-create the cocktail he fell in love with, ultimately settling on a blend of 95 percent from mezcal and 5 percent from orange bitters.

At the core, Ponce’s key goal is to make his brews indistinguishable from cocktails in every way. “Every cocktail beer that I make, I want people to visually look at it, close their eyes, and on the first sip be like ‘is this a cocktail or beer?’”

Trial and Error

For Fal Allen, brewmaster at Anderson Valley Brewing Co. in Boonville, Calif., the inspiration for unique flavors came from his time owning a brewery in Singapore, where he fused the flavors of Asian cooking with European brewing.

His first cocktail beer was a gin and tonic gose. Allen painstakingly researched the key ingredients in both gin and tonic, and then layered those onto his gose base. “The light tartness really worked well,” he says.

Allen put equal effort into his next creation, the Old Fashioned. Anderson Valley sourced Wild Turkey barrels and Allen planned to add cherry, orange, and bitters to a base beer after barrel aging. However, initially things did not go according to plan.

To start with, Allen had concerns about the base beer. “We brewed a beer that we thought would work and in the fermenter it was terrible, but you never know until you know,” he says. He persevered and as he built up the cocktail profile by adding orange and cherry, things started to improve.

When it came time to add aromatic bitters, the brewery hit another hurdle. “We realized we’d have to open all these little bottles,” says Allen. As cocktail lovers know, bitters is used sparingly and sold in four-ounce bottles. To solve that problem, the brewery contacted Angostura directly and found that the company was willing to sell them bitters in five-gallon buckets.

Like at Firestone Walker, bitters turned out to be the magic ingredient. “Once that got into the beer it really brought all of the flavors together,” says Allen. He explains the magical transformation from unloved base beer to a great Old Fashioned by saying, “Aging in bourbon barrels can pull out some of the flavors you don’t love and bring out the flavors that you really want. Barrel aging and Angostura bitters really hold all of those flavors together.”

A Light Touch

A brewery with a significantly different approach is Dry Dock Brewing of Aurora, Colo. Its Docktail line targets light, fruity cocktail styles. Dry Dock’s brewers start with a neutral fermented corn sugar base to avoid overwhelming the fruit flavors and then incorporate natural juices and other flavorings.

Using a neutral base differs from how many breweries approach cocktail beers, bringing another dimension to the traditional concept of beer. Of course, like all good cocktails, these pack more punch than typical beer, with 9.5 percent ABV.

Co-founder Kevin DeLange sees Docktails as an adaptation to industry trends. With an increasing variety of flavored beers like hazy IPAs and adjunct-loaded brews, Dry Dock felt it was time to branch out. “There are so many breweries these days, so much competition, and lots of opportunities,” explains DeLange. “We’ll always think of ourselves first as a brewery but we’re open to looking at ourselves as an alcoholic beverage manufacturer.”

Dry Dock chose to focus on fruit-flavored cocktails because of their drinkability and because Dry Dock has had past success with fruit beers. Multi-medal-winning Apricot Blonde is well known in the Colorado market.

Additionally, Docktails were conceived primarily for the ready-to-drink (RTD) canned-beverage market. DeLange saw an opportunity in Colorado, where licensing allows certain establishments to only sell beer and not distilled products. Docktails help those businesses provide a cocktail-like experience while staying legal.

Both DeLange and Allen view the overall RTD market as an expanding pie. “I think whether it’s distilled spirits-based RTDs or the beer-based ones, it’s definitely a segment that’s growing,” says DeLange.

Allen agrees. “I think brewers that are continuing to do that see it as kind of a hedge against those kinds of products (RTD cocktails and seltzers).”

Ponce, however, is more circumspect, saying, “It’s always tough to predict the future.”

The Next Big Thing?

While all three breweries look at cocktail beers as an important component of their product lines, everyone tempers expectations as to whether this movement will take the industry by storm. Says Allen, “I don’t know if I’d go all the way to trend. It doesn’t seem to have caught on the way some people thought it might have.”

DeLange has similar thoughts. “I think you’re going to see people getting into it more and more,” adding, “I certainly don’t think it’s going to be anything like the seltzer thing was.”

One hope is that these beverages will attract people who aren’t typically beer consumers into the craft beer scene. Putting it in the broader context of alcoholic beverages in general, Allen says, “I think it does draw in consumers because cocktails have become a big part of the retail market.”

Regardless of their ultimate market share, cocktail-inspired beers continue the tradition of innovation that has been at the heart of craft brewing from the start. Whether savored by experienced beer drinkers or folks looking for something refreshing and different, these brews provide even more options in an already-diverse beer world.

The post Flavor Forward: Cocktail-Inspired Beers appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

Hops, perhaps the key flavor component of most brews, grow throughout the U.S. Dozens of small craft growers supply small breweries with local, high-quality hops. These farms are often family-run, community-centered, and count their acreage in double-digits vs. thousands.

As with craft brewers and drinkers, the relationship between farmer and customer is key. Craft breweries support buying local because they want flexibility and uniqueness in what they put in their beers. Chris Basso, brewmaster at Newburgh Brewing in Newburgh, N.Y., explains, “We have the ability to really know the producer and be able to talk with them on a personal level as well as discuss any brewing-related topics that might arise in regard to the hops.”

Basso buys from Crooked Creek Hops Farm in Addison, N.Y. Crooked Creek owner Chris Holden believes that some of the biggest advantages of being a craft farmer are loyalty and relationships. “I think that from a farmer’s standpoint, we want to look at it from the German model: we have a customer base who we work with from year to year and we have people who rely on us for generations.”

He also appreciates the independence of having a small farm. Crooked Creek grows eight acres of primarily Cashmere, Michigan Copper, Triumph, and Cascade. Smaller growers have the ability to focus on a few varieties that thrive on their unique plot of land versus being expected to grow every variety a brewer desires. “If we can plant a single variety per plot, that’s what we want,” says Holden.

Holden is also the director of sales and marketing for the New York Hop Guild. The guild is critical in supporting a variety-focused farming approach. It consolidates hops from smaller New York growers and distributes to craft breweries. Brewers get the convenience of buying from one distributor, while farmers can focus on what they do best.

Craft Connections

Chris DellaBianca of Billy Goat Hop Farm in Montrose, Colo., also values his craft connections. “The relationship with the brewers is why we got into it,” he says. “I was working for a brewery before I got into hop farming and it’s still nice to be involved.” He currently distributes directly to about 75 breweries in the southwest U.S., as Colorado lacks the same grower support network as New York.

At 32 acres, Billy Goat is the largest hop farm in the Southwest. DellaBianca takes pride in growing several varieties of Neomexicanus, a hop native to Colorado and New Mexico, along with more traditional varieties.

The farm’s small scale means DellaBianca gets direct feedback and sees the fruits of his labor first-hand. “I know exactly where my hops are going because I’m the one bringing them there. I know exactly which beers my hops are going into.”

Its size also means Billy Goat can be flexible with customers. If a brewer needs a hop ASAP for a brew, DellaBianca can help. “With our proximity, we can get it out in the mail that day. You call and you’re talking to me or [DellaBianca’s partner] Audrey— there’s no middleman.” On the growing side, he adds, “It’s easier to keep track of 30 acres and what’s going on in the field.”

Stewards of the Land

Bridging the gap between very small craft farms and larger growers, Gooding Farms in Parma, Idaho, has a family farming history going back to 1895. Acreage has fluctuated with brewing demand, but hops have always been in the ground. Today, three sisters—Diane, Michelle, and Andrea—run the farm along with their father, Mike.

Local connections motivate the sisters in the same way as other craft growers. “We really enjoy the spirit of craft brewing and being part of that community,” says Diane Gooding. “Because we’re a little smaller and family-oriented, it lends itself well to that culture.”

Like many farmers, the sisters enjoy their connection with the land. In recent years, they’ve undertaken environmentally friendly initiatives to help keep the land healthier by moving to a regenerative model. Among other things, it involves growing seed to plant cover crops and raising livestock to eat those crops and fertilize the soil. “We’re really trying to get off the chemical-based fertilizers. We’re trying to have a lighter footprint and be better stewards for the environment and locally,” says Gooding.

The Gooding sisters have also built up the farm’s research and development capacity and now sell their own proprietary strain of hops called Idaho Gem.

It’s hard to understate the Goodings’ passion for hands-on farming. “It’s a unique process. Hops have a vibe. Experiencing that in person—you can’t replace that,” said Gooding.

A Labor of Love

Craft farming naturally presents challenges not faced by larger operations. From financing, staffing, economies of scale, and limited recovery ability from pests and weather, craft hop growers are always on their toes. “You end up wearing a lot of different hats as a smaller producer,” says Gooding.

The bottom line, however, is that it’s about the bottom line. Economics are the number one challenge for any craft producer, whether brewer or farmer. “We can’t grow all the different varieties. We’re trying to preach to brewers that we have to have a certain scale to make the economics work,” says Crooked Creek’s Holden. Fortunately, he and his fellow growers have the support of the New York Hop Guild. “It frees the farmers to focus on the varieties that thrive on their terroir.”

Working small simply dictates a different cost structure. “Whenever you do stuff in a big way you can just do it cheaper per pound or per acre. It costs us a little more money per acre to raise a crop,” explains Billy Goat’s DellaBianca. Growers must pass this along to breweries, which face similar struggles with economics.

DellaBianca also contends that breweries have an incentive to purchase from larger brokers because they can buy all their hops from a single place under one invoice. Using various craft growers to source different varieties creates extra work for the brewery.

But despite the added work or cost, many breweries choose craft hops. Some do it altruistically out of community solidarity, but most do it for practical reasons; uniqueness, quality, and service.

Holden defines the draw for brewers. “They want to differentiate their beer, so they’ll work with us on selection of hops. They want to make those one-offs or seasonal beers special.” Billy Goat’s customers buy for similar reasons. “With our hop,s you know what you’re going to get. You can create a recipe around it and it brings consistency to your brewing,” says DellaBianca.

Fresher and Faster

When trying to make the next great beer, brewers thrive on predictability and quality. According to Michael Thomas, brewer at Colorado Boy Pizzeria & Brewery in Montrose, Colo., “Even though Billy Goat grows some common varieties like Nugget, Crystal, and Cascade, they have much better aroma and flavor profiles than what I can get from the national market.”

DellaBianca attributes some of this to his small operation’s faster processing ability. “We can get hops from the field and into a pellet and vacuum sealed Mylar bag within weeks as opposed to months,” he said. “I think it stays fresher. It remains more vibrant and has more pop to it. There’s less oxidation.”

Colorado Boy uses Billy Goat hops in every one of its beers. Says Thomas, “I’m always trying to make a better beer and source more locally. I’m happy to support another local business that supplies a great product and aligns with our brand’s goals.

“My goal is to eventually make all of my beers 10-mile beers, where all my ingredients are sourced as local as possible.”

Service is also a big part of why brewers go with craft providers. Being small gives hop growers a certain edge. Gooding describes her farm’s approach as “focusing on what our customers are wanting. How can we improve our processes to improve quality?” Holden feels similarly. “Our customer service is a little better. We have it more in tune with our customer base.”

In the end, being a craft hop grower is much like being a craft brewer. Both face challenges posed by economies of scale and larger competitors. However, their small size allows them to develop relationships with their customers, focus on quality, and be an integral part of their local communities.

Perhaps Billy Goat’s website best sums up what craft hop growers do. “The definition of craft is ‘an activity that involves making things skillfully by hand, often in a traditional way.’ Our hands are dirty every step of the way—every new shoot, every cone, every moisture reading, every pellet, we’re there with care and honesty creating an authentic product.”

The post Craft Hop Growing in the U.S. appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

ALS, commonly known as Lou Gehrig’s disease, is a degenerative neuromuscular disease that slowly robs people of their ability to walk, talk, and even breathe. There are few effective treatments and no known prevention or cure. The Smiths, along with daughter and Bale Breaker Brewing Company Co-Founder Meghann Quinn, founded Ales for ALS to raise money through beer sales to fund research aimed at finding treatments – and ultimately a cure – for ALS.

Family Concerns Spark Action

Over the years, Cheryl watched numerous relatives succumb to ALS, including her grandfather and father. Along the way, she learned that her family carries a gene that causes ALS, explaining that this gives descendants a 50 percent chance of contracting the disease.

In 2011, Cheryl’s brother Scott Hanses was diagnosed. 

“That was what finally woke our family up, and we said we’ve got to do something,” Cheryl says.

In 2013, the Smiths founded Ales for ALS. 

“We needed as a family to get out in front of the disease,” Cheryl adds. “We were always reacting to another diagnosis.”

A Program Rooted in Hops

The family decided to leverage their unique position as hop producers, along with their craft brewing industry connections, to make the biggest impact possible in fighting the disease. Instead of simply donating money or holding a fundraiser, Quinn suggested involving brewers through the family’s hop-growing roots. 

“My family has been harvesting hops since 1932,” Quinn says. “We have a passion for hops. It’s in our blood, it’s in our DNA.”

Ales for ALS goes full-circle, from the Smiths’ hop fields to craft beer lovers’ glasses across the country. Each year the Smiths work with hop supplier Yakima Chief Hops to donate a unique hop blend to participating brewers. Brewers agree to brew a beer and donate $1 from each pint to Ales for ALS. They can brew whatever style of beer they want.

As co-owner of Bale Breaker Brewing Company, Quinn eagerly took the lead with a hop-forward brew. 

“Now we have an avenue to share our message with more people,” she says. 

Brewers Celebrate Unique Ingredients

Many participating brewers also choose beers that proudly display the flavors and aroma of each year’s hop blend, which is created by some of the most respected brewers in the industry.

Every fall, a rotating group of brewers meets at Sierra Nevada Brewing Company’s Single, Fresh, Wet & Wild Hop Harvest Festival in Chico, California, to sample various hop varieties and determine the Ales for ALS blend. Yakima Chief then produces commercial quantities for spring distribution to brewers.

Personal Ties Help Spread Program

The Smith family initially had modest goals for Ales for ALS, but the program quickly grew beyond their expectations. They found a surprising number of breweries with personal connections to ALS, either through an employee who was suffering or who had loved ones with the condition. 

After the first year, “we were getting brewers from all over the country, and all of them had a story,” Mike Smith says.

For Thiel, the program tapped a cause that he had championed for many years, and was magnified by the news that his high school sweetheart Beth Hardesty had been diagnosed. 

“Finding out that my friend had ALS changed things,” he says. “I felt helpless.”

Brewery Brings the Fight Home

As a brewery owner, Ales for ALS seemed like the perfect way for Thiel to regain some control and make a positive difference. In late 2019, Ghostfish released Resilient Dry-Hopped Tart IPA using Ales for ALS hops. 

At the same time, Thiel discovered that close relatives of two friends from his hometown of Findlay, Ohio, had been diagnosed and he resolved to make an even bigger difference. Thiel reached out to Findlay Brewing Company about collaborating on an Ales for ALS event that would raise both funds and community awareness.  Findlay Head Brewer and Co-Owner Aaron Osborne agreed, and Thiel got to work on the paperwork and logistics to legally serve Resilient in Ohio. 

The event was an outstanding success on all levels. 

“It was shoulder-to-shoulder and elbow-to-elbow,” Thiel says.

In addition to educating friends and neighbors about ALS, and the toll it takes on those who suffer from the disease and their families, it raised much-needed funding for Ales for ALS’s fight. Resilient was so popular that customers finished off every last drop well before the end of the event. 

“The bartender said, ‘You could have sent double what you sent and we still wouldn’t have had enough beer,’” adds Thiel.

Making an Impact from Coast to Coast

On the East Coast, Mighty Squirrel Brewing Company in Waltham, Massachusetts, joined Ales for ALS after taproom employee and ALS activist Andrea Sheehey pitched the idea. What they didn’t know at the time was that Sheehey’s family also has the gene that causes ALS. Sheehey has lost numerous family members including her father to the disease. She has yet to be tested for the gene and faces a future of uncertainty. 

“The fear is there,” she says. “I can’t change my fate but I can do as much as I can to cure ALS.”

After recruiting Mighty Squirrel, Sheehey helped brew the beer and even got to name it. She christened the imperial IPA Ales for DAD in memory of her father, whose initials were coincidentally D.A.D.

“It was my proudest moment after working in the industry for eight years,” Sheehey said of the beer release. “It means more to me than anyone could ever imagine.”

For Sheehey, Ales for ALS also offers a fantastic conversation starter in the taproom and at festivals, to educate people and connect with individuals who have been impacted. 

“I never really knew how deep this was,” Sheehey says, astounded by the number of people who have shared their personal stories. 

Thiel agrees, viewing Ales for ALS as a catalyst to get people talking about the disease and to put them in action.

Funding Research to Conquer Disease

All funds from the program support the ALS Therapy Development Institute (ALS TDI). ALS TDI works to find treatments for ALS, with the ultimate prize being a cure. Founded by the family of a patient, the institute is the largest nonprofit dedicated solely to ALS research. 

“We thoughtfully chose to partner with ALS TDI because of their research capability,” Quinn says. “We need to end this disease.” 

With the goal of attacking ALS from every angle, ALS TDI has found preliminary success with several treatments, including one drug heading into stage two trials.

For those impacted by ALS, however, progress can never move fast enough. 

“ALS [research] is seriously underfunded,” Thiel says, and he appreciates Ales for ALS’s impact on closing that funding gap. In just six short years, Ales for ALS has already blown past its initial lifetime goal of raising $750,000, topping $3 million in 2019.

Distinguished Breweries Drive Continued Growth

The number of premier breweries that participate also shows the strength of the program. 

“The fact that it keeps growing as it does and we retain the high profile brewers that we do – it just amazes us,” Mike Smith says. He counts breweries such as Russian River Brewing Company, Founders Brewing Company and Bell’s Brewery as supporters, and notes that virtually every participating brewery returns.

The program only looks to become stronger. After distributing over 10,000 pounds of the Ales for ALS hop blend to 193 breweries in 2019, they expect over 230 participants in 2020.

Sheehey hopes to make a significant contribution to that growth by recruiting more Massachusetts breweries. Her personal goal is to net 41 in 2020. 

“My goal is 41 because that is the age my father died,” Sheehey explains. “My goal is to make an impact. I want to make this the biggest year ever.”

Currently, breweries in 35 states participate, with more joining every year. This means that more and more craft beer drinkers can grab a pint knowing they’re supporting a good cause while sipping craft brews with friends. 

“I have always believed that beer is a mechanism for bringing people together, to share experiences and the company and presence of other people,” Thiel says.

Ales For ALS Brings Hope for the Future

Ultimately, Ales for ALS means creating a better future for people suffering from the disease and those who care about them. 

“With what’s been going on at ALS TDI, we have hope,” Cheryl Smith says. “To be able to say we have hope is not something that has ever been associated with ALS.”

Find a full list of Ales for ALS breweries on their website www.a4als.net.

The post From Hops to Hope – Ales For ALS Fights Fatal Disease appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

To find out what keeps a brewery ticking for 30-plus years and what kind of wisdom comes with that longevity, we spoke with founders and longtime employees of three award-winning independent, long-standing craft breweries. Each holds a respected place their region and has received national recognition.

The Early Roots of Long-Standing Craft Breweries

At 40 years old, Boulder Beer Company combined the hippie 1970’s Boulder, Colorado, vibe with innovative brewing ideas to supply the state’s Front Range. The iconic brewery served as pioneer and resource for the craft brewing industry along with influencing several generations of newer breweries. They’ve also poured at every Great American Beer Festival since the first small gathering in 1982.

In the Midwest, Millstream Brewing Co. in Amana, Iowa, opened in 1985 as the first post-prohibition brewery in Iowa and introduced many Iowans to their first craft beer. Once focused on German-style beers, the 34-year-old brewery expanded its tap list and added a restaurant to become a tourist attraction and community gathering place.

Just four years younger, Pike Brewing Company has matured into a downtown Seattle institution. It’s known for the restaurant and pub, which are at the center of its gravity-fed, three-level brewery that also includes a microbrewery museum.

As a group, these long-standing craft breweries have weathered all sorts of challenges over the decades. Despite critical events like ownership changes, significant retooling, major rebranding and in one case even bankruptcy, each brewery has come away stronger and more focused on their core mission and values. Through their longevity and the wisdom that comes with it, they have become well-respected elders in the craft beer industry.

(READ: Maui Brewing Goes Off-the-Grid)

Long-standing Craft Breweries Focus on Mission, Quality

All three breweries stress the importance of maintaining a sharp focus on product, core values and passion for beer as reasons behind their longevity.

Understanding and adapting to trends without going to extremes or compromising quality has allowed these breweries to thrive for decades. A tap list of consistent, repeatable beers balanced with new products that have high standards and mainstream appeal keeps existing customers happy while enticing new beer drinkers.

Teresa Albert, co-owner of Millstream explains, “We stay true to our core. Our beers are consistent and high-quality.” She adds that Millstream has maintained a focus on approachable, drinkable beers instead of chasing the latest trends. “We’re ‘the slow and steady wins the race.'”

Dan Weitz, director of sales for Boulder Beer, attributes much of the brewery’s endurance to being authentic, making quality products and staying true to themselves.

“We stay in our lane,” Weitz says. “We never tried to be what we weren’t.”

Breweries with Staying Power Learn How to Adapt

In today’s competitive beer market, simply relying on flagship beers and having a well-known brand doesn’t guarantee success. Beer lovers constantly seek out the new and different. Breweries with staying power have adapted to the new market realities.

Pike Brewing long counted on its core beers to drive sales but recognized that it also needed to keep innovating to stay relevant. It has both introduced new twists on beer styles and tried to differentiate itself with its ingredients. The brewery seeks out Washington-grown hops, malts and other ingredients that will set its beers apart.

“We’re working really hard to innovate,” says Charles Finkel, one of Pike’s founders. That includes developing deep relationships with growers and roasters to ensure access to high-quality, unique ingredients.

Millstream’s Albert also embraced change as the brewery branched out into new beer styles. “I never dreamed that we would be doing what we’re doing now. If we hadn’t evolved with the market putting fruit in beers, I never would have known how good they are.”

Beer Market Forces Accelerate Change

Along with brewing innovation, breweries consistently evaluate the ways in which they deliver beer to beer lovers. They admit that securing space on retail taps and shelves has become more difficult as beer brands and styles have proliferated.

“Other people are knocking on their door and trying to take that business from us,” says Pike’s Finkel.

Boulder Beer Co. recently made the decision to exit the distribution platform and focus exclusively on success as a local brewery. The move will result in significant changes at Boulder Beer including the loss of numerous staff along with the replacement of their 50-barrel brewing system with a much smaller setup.

Marketing Director Tess McFadden says that management struggled with the decision but ultimately concluded that focusing on local beer drinkers is the right move for the brewery. Although year-to-date sales are up, she says long term trends point to beer lovers who increasingly want to drink local.

She explains that the recent change is one more example of the brewery aligning with the times.

“We’re willing to change and evolve. We’ve always done that. That’s why we’ve been in business so long,” McFadden says.

The more nimble brewery expects to offer taproom visitors more variety with more experimental beers and frequent tap rotation. In the context of Boulder Beer Co.’s long history, this is but one more adaptation. McFadden says the goal of the change is to “see us serving beers 40 years from now.”

Diversification Strengthens Connection to the Beer Lover

All three long-standing craft breweries attribute their expansion into restaurants and multiple locations as important components in their long-term success strategy. This diversification allows them to both enhance their revenue streams and connect more beer lovers with their beer.

For example, Millstream’s BrauHaus restaurant has a large biergarten that supports events like live music, a beer festival and a bike race that connect with the community.

“It’s a social event — camaraderie around a glass of craft beer,” explains Albert.

The restaurant also doubles the number of beers on tap at any one time versus the taproom alone. This provides customers with more variety, while Millstream gets feedback on new, small-batch experimental beers.

Pike also looks to its restaurants as significant business assets and key engagement points with its customers.

“The restaurants are the backbone,” says Drew Gillespie, president and co-owner. “Having that more complete atmosphere of a restaurant allows you to tell more of your story”

The addition of food also helps to diversify the business model. The restaurants offer another avenue to sell Pike’s beer, and food revenue can help supplement beer sales.

(READ: Like IPAs? Try Italian-Style Pilsners)

Employees Who Love Beer

The final common thread for these long-standing craft breweries is the people. All three breweries have core staff members with decades-long tenure–longer than most of today’s breweries have existed.

Everyone at these breweries expressed an unreserved enthusiasm and passion for beer and the craft brewing industry. They talked excitedly about new beer innovations and interesting ways to help more people enjoy craft beer.

“We do it because we love it!” Albert says. “We’re just having a blast. We just love the brewery.”

Clearly, brewing beer is about much more than just business. Having long histories and staff members who are invested in the product translates to consistency and quality.

“We’re beer people; we like beer,” says Boulder Beer’s Weitz.

(READ: The State of Parenting in Craft Beer)

Can They Be Successful for Another 30 Years?

Given an increasingly crowded and rapidly changing craft beer market, we asked these brewery veterans to envision the future. What will guide the industry through the next 30 years? It turns out their roadmap for future success isn’t all that different from what brought them this far.

For new breweries opening up, experienced brewers caution that everything takes much longer and costs much more than expected. Successful breweries need a solid business plan beyond simply making good beer. They must concurrently manage finances, distribution, staffing, competition, and dozens of other factors.

“In the long term, we’ll see how many breweries can be economically sustained. It’s hard to stay profitable and last over decades,” says Pike’s Gillespie. “The easier days of running a brewery are definitely over, not that it’s ever been easy,” he says.

Most importantly, a brewery must have a vision, remain consistent and execute with the highest quality.

“Be true to who you are. If you go in too many different directions it will confuse the consumer,” says Millstream’s Albert.

In a time of diminished attention spans, all three long-standing craft breweries recommend avoiding distractions and staying focused. David Zuckerman, brewmaster emeritus at Boulder Beer, sums it up: “I think what everyone is realizing is that you can only be new for so long,” he says.

Much like a great beer, long-term success in the brewing industry requires balance. Breweries must hold on to the solid base that they have built, while adding complementary flavors through new styles and ingredients.

Having survived numerous challenges, none of these breweries is content to rest on their past success. They take well-deserved pride in their beers and status as long-standing breweries, but acknowledge the need to keep innovating to ensure many more decades of beer.

The post Change is a Constant for Breweries That Stand the Test of Time appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

A new expansion unveiled this summer allows this gluten-free brewery to increase production and distribution and also grow founder/owner Karen Hertz’s vision of helping people who need or choose a gluten-free lifestyle to enjoy craft beer.

Holidaily Brewing’s New Facility

On May 4, 2019, Holidaily celebrated the opening of their built-to-order 10,000-square-foot brewhouse. The new facility lies just across the street from the current brewery and taproom. A year in the making, the new brewing and packaging facility allows Holidaily to increase production to an estimated 2500 barrels this year.

(Related: Beers Without Barley: Brewing with Alternative Grains)

The inside of the building sparkles with new machinery for brewing, canning and packaging. According to Hertz the facility gives Holidaily “upgrades from the very beginning to the very end of the process.”

Even with all the gleaming new equipment, the space feels very roomy and open since Holidaily intentionally planned for future growth. Says Hertz, “The footprint of the cooler is larger than the entire footprint across the street” at the existing taproom/brewery.

“The footprint of the cooler is larger than the entire footprint across the street at the existing taproom/brewery.” Karen Hertz, Holidaily Brewing Co.

Demand for Gluten-Free Beer Far Exceeded Holidaily’s Original Expectations

Opened in February 2016, Holidaily was a deeply personal effort for Hertz. Diagnosed with cancer and auto-immune thyroid disease she was told she simply could not consume gluten. Hertz refused to let her dietary restrictions end her love of craft beer.

“[I] worked at Coors, live in Colorado, love craft beer, love beer in general and started trying gluten-free beers that were out there and felt like the quality was lacking,” she says.

Leveraging her industry experience and MBA in entrepreneurial studies, she set out to create better beer for herself and others in similar situations. Hertz worked with Grouse Mountain Malts and Colorado State University’s Fermentation Science School on experiments with ingredients, recipes and techniques to create the original Holidaily beer lineup. Hertz was confident in her beers but uncertain about expansion.

(More: Beer That Makes a Difference in People’s Lives)

“I knew there had to be other people out there that wanted gluten-free beer but I wasn’t sure the pace at which it was going to grow,” she says.

As it turned out, Holidaily tapped into the rising demand for gluten-free products along with craft beer’s popularity. Growth has far exceeded Hertz’s expectations. From 257 barrels in the brewery’s first year, production increased to 1200 barrels in 2018 and will more than double again this year. She expects about 80 percent to go into distribution.

Holidaily Adds New Technology to Brew Gluten-Free Beer

Along with other upgrades, the expansion insures that Holidaily can increase geographical distribution of its flagship beers while still filling the taproom with interesting new creations.

Holidaily’s rustic taproom remains unchanged in its current location, although part of the current brewhouse may get an upgrade to enjoy use for special events. Some equipment will remain for use in experimental brews.

With prior experience scaling up breweries like Pikes Peak Brewing Co., in Colorado Springs, Colorado, head brewer Alan Windhausen knew what to expect when the brewery transitioned to a larger system.

(More: What is a Craft Brewery?)

“It took three to four batches of each [beer] to dial in the math,” he says, and shared his excitement over the efficiencies that Holidaily’s larger facility brings. One immediate benefit is the ability to brew two batches in the time it used to take to do one.

Another highlight is the Meura mash press system. The press uses a series of horizontal air bladders and filters instead of the traditional vertical mash tun to gain 20 percent higher extraction from the mash process. For non-beer geeks, this efficiency translates to more flavor and alcohol for drinking enjoyment.

The new mash system also solves challenges with the gluten-free millet and buckwheat grains that Holidaily uses. The two grains are vastly different sizes in the mash, which can cause issues with traditional equipment. The improved technology eliminates those complications.

Hertz explains that pioneering this unique mash system, which is one of fewer than 100 in the U.S. and the only one utilizing gluten-free grains, comes with added challenges.

“There’s not a lot of people you can call and say ‘Hey, how did you deal with this or what do you think of this?’” she says.

Future Growth for the Gluten-Free Brewery

Hertz believes the new facility offers lots of potential for the future. Listing off the ways that Holidaily is currently experimenting with grains, equipment, temperatures and enzymes, Hertz exclaims, “We’re at the tip of the iceberg! It’s just all experimentation still at this point.”

Windhausen adds that he expects other breweries will be looking to Holidaily for expertise: “We’re expecting some calls in the next year.”

Holidaily has also engaged a distributor to broaden their footprint which, combined with higher production, will bring their beer within reach of more craft beer enthusiasts. Their first priority is adding a winter seasonal and increasing distribution outside the Front Range.

(Find: Breweries Near You)

“Corner to corner in Colorado is the goal at this point. By the end of the year we want to be everywhere in Colorado,” says Hertz.

Beyond that, the team is evaluating markets and distribution logistics. Primarily, they are looking for an intersection of craft beer lovers and an interest in wellness and a gluten-free lifestyle. Hertz describes it as, “Outdoors intersecting with health.”

While Hertz and Windhausen both have a passion for serving the gluten-free market, they’re not limiting themselves.

“We want to make good beer, we don’t want to make good ‘gluten-free’ beer,” says Windhausen.

The post A New Day at Holidaily: Gluten-free Brewery Expands as Demand Rises appeared first on CraftBeer.com.

We spoke to several independent brewers to understand what alternative grains bring to the already-crowded field of experimental beer ingredients.

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To understand the fuss about whether beer can be barley-free, it helps to know a bit of history.

With origins dating to Prohibition in the 1920s, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms decreed that beer must have a minimum of 25 percent barley in the grain bill. Fermented beverages from other grains were typically relegated to the wine category.

But starting in 2006 the team at Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee had different ideas. When his father was diagnosed with gluten intolerance, head brewer Luther Paul conceived of a gluten-free beer made with sorghum instead of barley.

The brewery approached the bureau at the annual Craft Brewers Conference with their idea, were told to file a Statement of Process. The brewery got the definition of beer expanded to include any cereal grains, removing the barley requirement.

Beers Without Barley

Fast-forward to today and brewers are turning out beers made from millet, corn, sorghum, rice, maguey, buckwheat and other ingredients. The majority serve the demand for gluten-free products but a minority taps into an interest in cultural and historic beers.

Brewers that we talked to noted some initial difficulty gaining customer acceptance due to the different tastes and lack of familiar flavors that non-traditional ingredients impart. For example, sorghum has a reputation for imparting metallic notes or off flavors, while other ingredients like corn give a completely unexpected experience. Brewers have spent significant time perfecting their recipes to approximate the flavor profile beer drinkers expect, or gone the opposite direction to create something unapologetically different.

Online feedback covers the spectrum from negative to “highly recommended” with people often awarding gluten-free sympathy points in their ratings. Different strokes for different folks perhaps? Let’s put the theory to the test.

In four short years, Ghostfish Brewing in Seattle has won numerous awards with beers crafted from millet, brown rice and buckwheat.

Owner Brian Thiel and his co-founders originally conceived of a typical barley-based craft brewery. But when Thiel’s wife was diagnosed with celiac disease the grain bill, but not the passion for great beer, took a detour. The brewery committed to making high-quality beer in traditional styles but using alternate grains that don’t contain gluten.

Despite brewing in a highly competitive region, Ghostfish concedes nothing to its barley-based brethren.

“The bar is set pretty high in the Pacific Northwest and we wanted to rise to the occasion,” Thiel says.

Ghostfish strives to make tasty traditional-style beers, from light ales through juicy IPAs all the way to robust stouts. It even experiments with kettle-souring and barrel-aging.

(READ: Booming Beer Agriculture Supports Local Breweries)

Ghostfish’s Long List of Different Beers

Illustrating the versatility of alternative grains in the right hands, Ghostfish counts more than 300 different beers brewed by its fourth anniversary in early 2019.

“There’s really nothing that we can’t do. These grains really don’t have any limitations or handicaps other than what we can dream up,” Thiel says.

With this take-no-prisoners approach, Ghostfish regularly bottles Winter Stout, Hot Pepper Beer, and Pumpkin Spice Belgian Ale.

“We’re just getting started,” Thiel says.

So is it beer? Thiel argues passionately that the answer is yes. The grains are different but “the product is virtually the same.”

“Everything we’re doing is pretty much the same fashion as everyone else is doing. There’s no question in our minds that this is beer,” he says.

Thiel says that many people don’t even realize that the beer is gluten- and barley-free.

Customer Chris Powell agrees wholeheartedly. Although he is not gluten-free, Powell chooses Ghostfish beers for their taste and thinks they stack up against any comparable style.

“There are other great IPAs I gravitate to, and I would put this right up against them,” says Powell. He says he views any taste differences as the natural outcome of different brewers making different recipes.

Tradition and History on Tap in Denver

Approaching non-barley beers from a completely different direction, Dos Luces Brewery in Denver taps into the themes of beer tradition and history to create Chicha and Pulque styles from corn and maguey, a relative of agave.

Owner Judd Belstock draws inspiration from the indigenous Americans who have been brewing these beverages for thousands of years, though they are relatively unknown to U.S. drinkers.

Chicha has attained a mystique as a chewed-corn beer used in high-Andes Inca religious ceremonies. But Belstock points out that modern-day Chicha production is virtually identical to barley-based beers.

Corn is ground in a mill and fermented in normal brewing equipment — no chewing or rituals required.

So how does it compare to barley-based brews? The hazy, yellowish appearance and small head look something like a New England IPA but the flavor is less familiar. Sipping the light-bodied brew brings a slightly sweet taste, along with spice. Belstock adds clove and cinnamon.

Lesser-known Pulque has a taste almost opposite of Chicha. Belstock describes it as a backward sour.

“Most sour beers hit you with that malty sweetness up front and a sour finish. This is the other way around. It hits you with a sourness up front and a sweet finish,” Belstock says. The beer also contains a hint of cloves and ginger.

(READ: Wisconsin Brewers Bringing Rare Styles Back to Life)

Brewing New Ideas Every Week

Looking to infuse some modern vibes into these basic historic styles, Belstock tries out new ideas in weekly small batch brews. He kicks things up with various spices, fruits and other flavorings.

With virtually unlimited possibilities, Belstock says he has yet to make the same batch twice.

One of the beers that made it to full-batch production is Azteca Pulque. Inspired by Mexican hot chocolate, it contains three types of chocolate plus a kick of cayenne pepper.

Given these radical departures from what most people expect from a beer, does Belstock believe they can truly be called beer? His answer is, perhaps unsurprisingly, yes, though some customers believe otherwise.

“We have a lot of customers who come in and say, ‘This isn’t beer.’ And not that they’re saying it’s bad but they want to convince me that it’s not beer,” Belstock says.

On the contrary, he says, both technically and historically Chicha and Pulque are beer.

“They all come from grains,” he says. And modern-day Chicha and Pulque production use the same techniques and equipment as barley-based beers.

Belstock also thinks that our historic European-centric view of beer could be much different.

“If the conquest had gone the other way we’d have 350 styles of corn beer and one category of barley-based European style [beer],” he says.

“On Paper it Looks Like a Pilsner”

Back in the heartland where it all began, Lakefront Brewing carries on brewing New Grist, its original gluten-free, pilsner-style beer.

With significant online discussion over whether New Grist technically meets the definition of beer, Lakefront’s Matt Krajnak qualifies the pilsner moniker.

“The closest thing is a pilsner but it doesn’t taste exactly like a pilsner. On paper it looks like a pilsner,” he says. “People are expecting it to be like a craft pils taste but that’s not really what we’re going for.”

What New Grist aims for is a light, crisp and refreshing profile, where green apple flavors from rice balance out the sorghum maltiness.

While Milwaukee’s German founders might not recognize this brew, Krajnak says this all-purpose beer has been slowly gaining acceptance outside of the gluten-free crowd.

Looking beyond the flagship pilsner, Lakefront uses its skills and imagination to create additional styles based on New Grist.

According to Krajnak the brewer constantly tweaks firkin batches with different flavorings and yeasts, and successful experiments go on to broader release. Past successes include a ginger-flavored variety, and this spring beer-drinkers can look forward to a gose.

(VISIT: Find a U.S. Brewery)

Answering the Beer Without Barley Question

So back to the original question of whether a brew can be beer without barley. The government, brewers and enthusiasts appear convinced.

While customers will always debate the merits of beer recipes with brewers, everyone seems to agree that the only real way to figure out if barley-free brews are for you is to take a few bottoms-up and decide for yourself.

Worst-case you’ll end up with an interesting story, and best-case find a new favorite beverage!

The post Beers Without Barley: Brewing with Alternative Grains appeared first on CraftBeer.com.